230 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



May, 19 14 



Look over the bulb beds; be sure that everything is properly 

 labelled so that you can lift same when necessary. 



CEEDS of the following can be sown now in the open garden 

 ^ (the plants to be treated as annuals): Antirrhinum, arc- 

 totis, aster, calendula, calliopsis, candytuft, carnation, centaurea, 

 chrysanthemum (annual), cosmos, datura, dianthus, dimorpho- 

 theca, eschscholzia, annual gaillardia, globe amaranth, 

 be^twn nicotiana, gypsophylla, sunflower, straw flower, helio- 

 trope, marigold, larkspur, kochia, lavatera, lupin, 

 mignonette, myosotis, dwarf nasturtium, pansy, petunia, phlox, 

 poppy, salpiglossis, scabiosa, solanum, stock, viola, verbena, 

 wallflower and zinnia. 



The following vines, which are annual in their habit, can be 

 handled in the same way: Hop vine, four o'clock, climbing nas- 

 turtium, morning glory, scarlet runner, dolichos, gourds, cypress 

 vine, ipomcea. It is a little late for sweet peas, but you might 

 get fair results if started quite early in the month. 



TZ"EEP the cultivator busy in the rose bed and keep all the brier 



stock cut out so that the roses get the full benefit of the 



strength of the stock they are grafted on. You can recognize the 



brier stock by its seven small leaflets instead of the customary five. 



Watch closely for rose bugs and keep them picked 



Rosses ° °^ *-he bushes. You cannot kill them by spraying as 

 they will simply bore into the flower. Carry with you 

 a small pail 

 filled with ker- 

 osene and 

 brush the bugs 

 into this. 



It is also 

 well to spray 

 the roses at 

 this time with 

 arsenate of 

 lead as there 

 will be now a 

 number of 

 troublesome 

 leaf eaters. 



Plenty of work to be 

 done in transplanting 

 from pots 



TT IS now safe to start sowing 



cucumbers. Make two sowings 



in the month, and do not forget to 



spray regularly with bordeaux mix- 



ture or copper solution. 



Jegetible^ Make the first sow " 



ing of corn early in 



May, and several more during the 

 month. Do not forget Golden Ban- 

 tam if you want quality. If corn 

 was started in the greenhouse in 

 pots, it can be set outdoors after the 

 middle of the month. 



Eggplant and pepper raised 

 under glass can also be set out the 

 latter part of the month. These 

 plants cannot stand cold, and if a 

 late cold spell threatens, plant 

 protectors should be used. 



Pumpkins and squash can be sown early this month. Both these 

 plants are gross feeders and should have well prepared hills. Leaf- 

 mold is the ideal soil, and for extra large fruit sow the seed on a 

 heap of rotted leaves. 



Tomato plants can be set out when the weather has settled. 

 Better build a trellis of some description; a triangular support 

 made of shingle lath running about four feet to the side, is excellent 

 and easy to construct. Tomatoes like a fairly good soil but not too 

 rich, as that induces too much growth and no fruit. Wait until 

 the plants are fruiting and then apply fertilizer in liquid form. 



Okra can be sown early this month, protecting your first sowing 

 with one made two weeks later. The first sowing may be injured 



Clip box edges during May, just as growth get strong 



by a few cool nights which will not show at first, but later the leaves 

 will turn yellow and die. The plants never do well under these cir- 

 cumstances; the second sowing insures you against such failure. 



You should get delivery on sweet potato plants this month, 

 plant in raised rows about three feet apart and about one foot 

 apart in the row. Keep the runners from rooting by lifting them 

 frequently. 



Artichoke plants which were started indoors can be set out early 

 this month; if you want good heads you must give the plants rich soil. 



AT LEAST three sowings of peas should be made this month. 

 Do not neglect to hill up your peas when they are about three 

 or four inches high and stake them up a few days later. Do not 

 put off this work ; for if the vines blow over they will probably get 

 Seeds for mildewed and the crop ruined. Dwarf peas are very 

 Present susceptible to mildew and are very shy croppers. 

 Sowing Early in the month put in a row of bush limas; pole 



limas can be sown later. I put sand around the pole lima seeds 

 as they rot very easily. Sow the bush limas very thickly as you 

 can always thin out the plants. And select dry weather for sow- 

 ing lima beans. 



This is the proper time to sow the other types of pole beans, 

 such as the Old Homestead, White Creasback, or Speckled Cran- 

 berry. These are all wonderful producers; the quality, how- 

 ever, is not as good as other beans. 



For a succession of crops make at least two sowings of string 

 beans during the month; or better, make three sowings, cutting 

 down on the quantity sown each time. 



Two sowings of beets and carrots should be made this month. 

 If you are fond of radishes, sow every week and not so very much 

 each time — that's the only way to have them fresh and crisp. 

 Winter radishes can be sown the latter part of the month. 



Turnips get very strong from sowings made at this time. How- 

 ever if you want them, sow often and in very small quantities; and 

 keep well watered to modify the rank flavor. Sow a couple of 

 hills of citron now so that you may have some to preserve next 

 fall. For small onions for eating green, make a sowing about even- 

 three weeks, using the White Bunch 

 variety. 



Sow lettuce three times in the 

 month. There is no reason why 

 you should not have first class 

 heads of lettuce from the garden all 

 summer if you sow a little at a time 

 and sow it often, selecting the pro- 

 per varieties of course, as explained 

 elsewhere in the Garden Magazine. 

 Endive can be handled in much the 

 same manner as lettuce. Sow it 

 often and in small quantities. 

 Romaine lettuce is as easy to cul- 

 tivate as the head lettuce; except- 

 ing perhaps the tying that is neces- 

 sary to properly blanch the hearts. 

 Make two sowings of kohlrabi 

 during the month. It gets strong 

 quickly during warm weather; sow 

 often and use small. 



Sow late cabbage and cauliflower 



in drills, where they are to remain, 



or they can be sown in a seed bed 



and later transplanted to rows in the garden. The former is 



the better method if you can spare the space. Brussels sprouts 



and kale are handled in like manner. 



Sow the main crop of celery and do not place all dependence upon 

 one variety. Sow in flats or seed beds and when large enough to 

 move, transplant to a preparded bed, from which, when large 

 enough, the plants can be put in rows in the garden. Kale can be 

 handled in exactly the same way. 



Spinach does better in partial shade during warm weather, so 

 plant it close to peas or other tall plants that will slightly shade it. 

 New Zealand spinach should be kept cut. If you have more 

 than enough for yourself and neighbors, the chickens will eat it. 



