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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 



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Photograph by Chaiies K. Closer 

 COMING DOW.N OUT OP THE) MOUNTAINS : SOCOTRA 



marvelously clear water, could be seen 

 sponges and pink corals growing on the 

 (bottom; not more motionless were they 

 than the life on shore. 



Finally, a lonely figure detached itself 

 from the beach and came shoveling (there 

 is no other word to describe it) a three- 

 log raft through the vitrescent water. He 

 proved to be an ancient fisherman so re- 

 markably like little Alice's friend that one 

 of the ladies dubbed him the "Goggly- 

 woggle" (see page 275). He had shells, 

 fish of brilliant colors, and striped pots 

 to sell ; but at first trade languished. To 

 every tender of money the Gogglywoggle 

 shook his head. We were puzzled until 

 an inspired Lascar offered him a handful 

 of rice. Ten minutes later the old fellow 

 had disposed of his entire stock for a 

 few pounds of rice and a dozen ship's 

 biscuit. 



Breakfast and the long morning passed 

 without any sign from the Sultan beyond 

 the raising of the Union Jack above the 

 palms. Chagrined and annoyed, we 

 passed the hours watching the native 



divers — magnificent black Tritons — bring 

 up small coins from the bottom. They 

 disdained all but the silver coins, which 

 they melt to make gewgaws for the 

 women. Socotrans have no use for 

 money among themselves, though they 

 can make use of it in their dealings with 

 Arab traders. 



WFXCOMJXD BY TUP SULTAN'S NEPHEW 



In the afternoon, when the sun had 

 somewhat abated, our party went ashore. 

 A great gathering had assembled ; hardly 

 a man on the island but was there to meet 

 us, saving only its lord. On the fringe of 

 the throng and lurking shyly among the 

 trunks of the palms were even a few 

 women. Not many of them had seen a 

 white face before. They crowded to sur- 

 vey us, and a nephew of the Sultan pre- 

 sented himself with many salaams and 

 excuses. His Highness had a slight in- 

 disposition and was sojourning at his 

 summer house in Haulaf, some eight 

 miles away. Undoubtedly he would come 

 tomorrow. Meantime, on behalf of his 



