THROUGH THE HEART OF HINDUSTAN 



447 



No city reached by 

 iron rails can quite 

 express the East, but 

 mud Peshawar, rising 

 humbly from a wide- 

 spread plain swept 

 half way round with 

 hills, is well worth 

 visiting, even if one 

 approaches it by dc 

 luxe express in a first- 

 class compartment 

 from which the very 

 spirit of the Orient is 

 barred until the ticket- 

 taker comes with def- 

 erent voice and asks 

 for "tikkuts" in a 

 dialect which no 

 Western tongue could 

 imitate. The north- 

 ern end of Main 

 Street is full enough 

 of strange, exotic 

 charm to warrant the 

 trip of nearly sixteen 

 hundred miles, each 

 one of which has in- 

 teresting features of 

 its own. 



at the: tomb of 



I, ALL A ROOKH 



Between Peshawar 

 and Rawalpindi, 

 Main Street and its 

 attendant railway 

 cross the swift Indus 

 at Attock, where a 

 fort erected by Akbar 

 to protect his Indian 

 holdings from his 

 brother, Hakim 

 Mirza of Kabul, re- 

 minds one that he is 

 on an historic high- 

 way. Traffic police- 

 men and corner cigar 

 stores of modernity 

 have not yet taken the 

 places of the forts and caravanserais 

 which marked the cross-roads in earlier 

 days. Here Alexander the Great is sup- 

 posed to have crossed the Indus on a 

 bridge of boats. 



A curve of the road soon hides from 

 view the turbid whirlpool swirling past 



Photograph by Maynard Owen Williams 



A PRIESTESS OF DANCE IN THE MOTI BAZAAR: LAHORE 



Vivacity, audacity, elusive charm, and verve are not characteristics 

 of this dancing girl. There is little novelty in her profession in the 

 East. Smiles do not always blossom on lips that are red, nor can 

 rich jewels awaken the care-free spirit of carnival (see text, page 

 45o). 



slate cliffs, on one of which the towering 

 fort looms high, and the train passes be- 

 tween barren fields to a small station near 

 the tomb of Lalla Rookh. 



Possibly no other legendary spot, unless 

 it be the corner of the Pere la Chaise in 

 Paris where Abelard and Heloise rest 



