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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 



Photograph by William Jessop 

 A WAYSIDE STOPPING PLACE ON THE MURREE ROAD 



Each night we planned to leave early 

 the next day, and each morning, struggle 

 as we would, we were late getting off. 

 The start always meant, besides break- 

 fast, putting up the bedding rolls and 

 seeing that the twenty-nine pieces of lug- 

 gage were carried down a steep hill and 

 repacked on our conveyances. 



There was often a dispute about reload- 

 ing, and the stronger drivers would try 

 to bully the weaker ones into carrying 

 more than their share. So if the sahibs 

 hadn't given some rather peremptory 

 orders, the day would have been well ad- 

 vanced before the start. 



FOLLOWING THE COURSE OE THE RIVER 

 JHELUM 



The morning was bright, clear, and 

 warm, for Kohala is only 2,000 feet 

 above sea-level. After securing permits, 

 we crossed the fine new suspension bridge 

 over the Jhelum and passed into Kashmir. 



There was a drive of 55 miles ahead of 

 us, as we wished to reach Chakothi that 

 night. The landau led the procession, 

 and our driver was determined that we 

 should stop at Garhi. 



When an Indian gari-zualla (driver) 



makes up his mind to a thing, a mem- 

 sahib's (woman's) protests are of little 

 avail. Either the ascent or descent is too 

 steep, or the horses will give out, or, as 

 a last resort, he grows most solicitous 

 about the condition of the animals and 

 must stop frequently to feed and water 

 them. 



It is astonishing, however, how quickly 

 the horses revive and all adverse condi- 

 tions disappear upon the offer of bak- 

 sheesh. The only difficulty about this 

 plan is that, used indiscriminately, it 

 means being held up constantly for extra 

 pay, and it becomes expensive as well as 

 annoying. However, by a judicious mix- 

 ture of sternness and bribery from the 

 sahibs, we accomplished our purpose. 



It was a long day, but very interesting. 

 After crossing the suspension bridge, the 

 valley is very narrow, little wider than 

 the river, which is here a mountain tor- 

 rent. 



The road winds along the left bank of 

 the Jhelum and is cut out of the side of 

 precipitous hills, down which landslides 

 often come. Indeed, near the bridge is a 

 sign, "Danger ! Beware of boulders !" 

 which is rather amusing, for who can 



