A PILGRIMAGE TO AMERNATH 



531 



Photograph by William Jessop 



LEAVING THE BEATEN PATH AT PA II EGA M 



Here the resolute traveler leaves the easy road and the lure of lazy contentment to 

 climb the rugged path that leads to the cave of pilgrimage at Amernath, 24 miles away and 

 nearly a mile higher up the mountain wall. 



even a large chapati (a wafer made of 

 dough and baked) is almost instantly con- 

 sumed with a smacking noise, as if the 

 feasters were calling for more. 



We reached Eishmakam about 4 o'clock. 

 Upon reaching camp, our first thought 

 was always for tea, crackers and jam or 

 cheese, and while we were thus refresh- 

 ing ourselves the coolies put up the tents 

 and laced the beds together. Sometimes 

 this was a long and tedious process and 

 required much urging and considerable 

 sternness before it was accomplished. 



THE PEASANT COSTUME OE KASHMIR 



Our simple housekeeping duties, baths 

 and changes of garments from the dusty 

 ones of the day, usually occupied us until 

 dinner was ready — any time from 7 to 

 9 o'clock. The lumbardar of the village 

 always paid his respects as soon after our 

 arrival as possible, bringing as a gift a 

 small basket of apples or walnuts. For 

 this he expected something in return — 

 the everlasting baksheesh. We usually 

 gave a rupee, for it was through him that 



we obtained milk, eggs, wood, and oil as 

 we went along. 



These village head men were usually 

 elderly, of a patriarchal aspect, large and 

 benevolent-looking, and dressed in the 

 unattractive garb of the peasant, the 

 principal garment being a kimono-like 

 phcran, of grayish brown wool. Under 

 this, in cold weather, is held. the kangri, 

 an earthenware pot about six inches in 

 diameter, protected on the outside by 

 wicker-work and containing live charcoal. 

 It is the Kashmiri stove and means com- 

 parative comfort to the poor. 



Baggy trousers of white cotton, cut off 

 just below the knee, are a part of the 

 costume, and pointed shoes. Puttees (a 

 word which the Western world has bor- 

 rowed from Hindustan) of narrow wool 

 cloth, wrapped bandage- fashion from the 

 ankle to the knee, are often worn. A 

 white turban completes the whole. 



The ordinary Kashmir villager is very 

 dirty. His phcran is of cotton, his san- 

 dals of plaited rice straw, and his head 

 covering is a greasy red or gray skullcap. 



