LISBON, THE CITY OF THE FRIENDLY BAY 



547 



of the shifting scene on the Avenida, the 

 very air is charged with mildly invigorat- 

 ing ozone, welcome after the heat of mid- 

 day. The stars shine brighter than in 

 less clear atmosphere, and twinkling 

 lights from the hillsides contrast pleas- 

 ingly with the glare of automobile head- 

 lights flashing through streets seemingly 

 among the clouds. 



Night-life indoors, like night-life in 

 cities the world over, has its devotees in 

 Lisbon. Theaters are numerous and a 

 great opera house, closed in summer, 

 stands near the Chiado. A large number 

 of vaudeville shows prosper, and cinemas 

 are most popular, American motion-pic- 

 ture stars being the prime favorites. 



Dance halls and dansant cafes are not 

 numerous. Only a few such institutions 

 of respectability and prominence are to 

 be found in operation during the summer 

 season. 



A VISIT TO AETAMA, A TANGLE OE NARROW 

 STREETS 



In direct contrast to the level Baixa, 

 with its wide streets, broad avenues, and 

 beautiful plaza, the Alfama is a rough 

 old hill, furrowed by a network of nar- 

 row, winding alleys and would-be streets 

 running in an indescribable tangle. 



On the very top of the hill stands the 

 ancient Moorish pile now called the Castle 

 of St. George. Although a barrack and 

 military prison, it is hallowed by centuries 

 of history and is an object of veneration 

 to all Portuguese. One may ride to within 

 a few blocks of the Castle by taking a 

 tram, or "electricos," near the Triumphal 

 Arch of the Praca do Commercio. 



The tram passes the Se or Cathedral of 

 Santa Maria, the oldest church in Lisbon. 

 Said to have been founded miraculously 

 in the year 306, this old building site has 

 been dedicated to pagan gods, has borne 

 a mosque on its foundation stones, and 

 has known several churches and cathe- 

 drals. The one now standing is being 

 restored. 



I went about this hill and old city by 

 "jitney." It was an experience The 

 buildings are antiques of remote times — 

 churches, shops, dwellings, towers, hos- 

 pitals, barracks, stables, hovels, and what- 

 not, cast about in a jumble of plaster, 

 stone, tile, adobe, and cobbles. 



' : •' • " 



Photograph by A. W. Cutler 



A SARDINE MERCHANT OE LISBON 



She feels more at home with her basket on 

 her head. This little maid was one of the very 

 few subjects who willingly posed for her pic- 

 ture. Her smile reveals the even white teeth 

 for which the Portuguese peasantry are noted. 



The streets are so narrow that when an 

 "electrico" passes, the dwellers are obliged 

 to stay indoors. Men with red and green 

 bunting are stationed along the tram route, 

 and the traffic is regulated by flag signal. 



Steep and crooked, narrow and slippery, 

 with blind turns on every hand, the streets 

 of Alfama are dangerous for automobile 

 traffic. I never have had a more thrilling 

 ride on wheels than that in this section. 



