-THE GLORY THAT WAS GREECE" 



621 



a half apologetic tone 

 to defend this, declar- 

 ing that one must not 

 omit the little duties 

 of the reverent trav- 

 eler, and asking, "Do 

 we not love to read on 

 the fragment of the 

 statue of Memnon the 

 names of the Romans 

 who heard its sigh at 

 break of day?" 



The two writers 

 probably followed 

 what was considered 

 merely conventional a 

 century ago, when that 

 storehouse of trite ut- 

 terances, the visitors' 

 book, was not so com- 

 mon as now. 



The: marbles of sun- 



ium's temple: a 



dazzling white 



It is interesting to 

 notice that the marbles 

 of this temple, drawn 

 from a near-by quarry, 

 are to-day, after 

 twenty -five centuries 

 of the sea-wind's play, 

 of an unsullied and 

 dazzling whiteness; 

 those of the Parthenon 

 have with time taken 

 on a marvelous golden 

 brown tone, but have 

 better resisted the ravages of years than 

 those at Sunium. 



We looked out over the blue waters 

 toward the double line of the Cyclades. 

 In the dimmest northeast distance Euboea 

 sprawled its length, with Andros and 

 Tenos as pendants to its brown throat. 



It was a fair, cool, clear day and the 

 island of Melos was dimly visible, lying 

 almost due south. It was there, it will be 

 recalled, that in 1820 the famous Venus 

 was found and carried to France through 

 the activity of a French diplomatist. 



Even while we looked, the kindly breeze 

 freshened and ugly clouds heavy with rain 

 flew up from Oros; fishing-boats, like 

 homing birds, began to run toward the 

 shore ; as they drew near, the wind in- 



Photograph by Fred Boissonnas 

 A COVERED BALCONY IN ANDRITS^NA 



creasing in violence, sail was shortened, 

 and they seemed like huge gulls shot on 

 the wing, as the varicolored canvas came 

 fluttering down to the decks. 



There is at Sunium an aged Greek who 

 exercises a guardianship over the ruins. 

 We visited his little garden, planted in a 

 series of irregular terraces sloping down 

 to the sea. Some one recited sonorously 

 Swinburne's "Forsaken Garden," and the 

 fascinating meter so harmonized with the 

 stretch of sea and sky as to give to it a 

 charm such as we had not realized before. 



ALONG THE GREEK RIVIERA 



There is a bridle and footpath from 

 Sunium to Athens, skirting the coast, 

 necessitating a night in the open — not at 



