84 



THE GARDEN M A G A Z I N E 



M A B C H . 1912 



grown chrysanthemum, 

 the soil must be thor- 

 oughly prepared and well 

 enriched. 



Asters adapt themselves 

 to practically any soil, 

 though best results are 

 obtained when grown in 

 a rich loam, not too heavy 

 and retentive, and where 

 the temperature is cool; 

 though with a little extra 

 ' care in providing moisture 

 and a cool soil, they can 

 be most successfully culti- 

 vated in almost any sec- 

 tion of the country. 

 Turn over the soil to a 

 depth of at least twelve 

 inches, at the same time 

 incorporating a liberal 

 quantity of well-rotted 

 farm-yard manure — you 

 can hardly give too much 

 — and rake into the sur- 

 face soil a dressing of acid 

 phosphate at the rate of 

 four ounces to the square 

 yard. 



Although good results 

 are obtained by sowing 

 the seed in the open 

 ground, those who have 

 space in their green- 

 houses or frames should 

 certainly start the seed 

 under glass, as a good and 

 even germination is more 

 likely to result and trans- 

 planted asters invariably 

 make much finer plants, 

 being more shapely and 

 producing better and 

 larger flowers than when 

 sown directly where 

 they are to bloom, and bloom is also 

 had earlier. 



In the greenhouse sow the seed in shallow 

 boxes containing carefully prepared soil, 

 consisting of equal parts of rich sandy loam 

 and leaf mold; if the loam is heavy, add 

 sand to lighten it. A very early start is 

 no advantage as the plants may become 

 too tall and leggy ere the weather is fit for 

 planting in the open. The middle of March 

 is a suitable date for sowing aster seed 

 indoors in the neighborhood of Phila- 

 delphia to plant out in May. Sow broad- 

 cast and cover with not more than one- 

 quarter inch of fine soil. 



After sowing the seed, water carefully 

 with a fine rose and cover with paper so 

 as to conserve the moisture and hurry 

 germination. Indiscriminate watering is 

 often the cause of poor stands. Give 

 water only when the soil actually requires 

 it, and use a fine rose on the watering can 

 to prevent the top soil (and seed) from 

 washing. 



The moment the seedlings begin to 

 break the soil, remove the paper shade. 

 When the seedlings are from one to two 

 inches in height, transplant to other boxes, 



As with most annuals, asters are best used in rich, masses of one color. 



garden color and for cutting 



or better still, into a mild hotbed, or even 

 a coldframe, setting them three inches 

 apart. Shade the transplanted seedlings 

 for a day or two until they show signs of 

 making fresh growth. At that time the 

 sun will be very powerful and air must be 

 given whenever possible, by lifting the 

 sash on the side opposite that from where 

 the wind comes, and as the season ad- 

 vances gradually harden off the plants by 

 removing the sashes entirely during the 

 daytime. 



When the trees are coming into leaf 

 the plants may safely be set out in the 

 beds or borders. An hour before trans- 

 planting give the plants a thorough soak- 

 ing of water which will enable you to lift 

 them with a good ball of soil adhering to 

 the roots. 



If the seed is sown in frames the same 

 general procedure will, of course, be fol- 

 lowed except that boxes will not be required, 

 the seed being planted directly in the soil 

 in the frames, the rows being three inches 

 apart. About the time for setting the 

 plants in the open a second sowing of 

 seeds should be made for late flowering, 

 either in frames as before or where the 



plants are intended to 

 bloom. 



In sections where the 

 flower buds are apt to 

 blight during the heat and 

 drought of midsummer, 

 plant the seed in a frame 

 or cool greenhouse dur- 

 ing March, transplanting 

 the seedlings when they 

 are about one inch or so 

 in height to stand three 

 inches apart; or they may 

 be potted singly into small 

 pots, kept in a rather cool 

 place so that they may 

 make sturdy growth, and 

 planted in the open when 

 all danger of severe 

 weather is past, a fairly 

 safe guide being to plant 

 when the trees are com- 

 ing into leaf. Plants 

 grown by this method will 

 give bloom much earlier 

 than when the seed is 

 sown early in the open 

 ground, and generally will 

 avoid both blight and 

 the attacks of the aster 

 (black") beetle. These evils 

 may also be escaped by 

 late sowing in the open 

 — early June. At that 

 period, however, the 

 weather may be very dry 

 and watering must be reg- 

 ularly attended to until 

 the seed has germinated 

 and the seedlings thinned 

 out or transplanted. The 

 plants from this late sow- 

 ing come into flower safely 

 during the cooler early 

 fall days. 

 When planting into their permanent 

 quarters, give each plant ample space to 

 develop itself. This is to say for the tall 

 varieties eighteen inches apart and for 

 the dwarfs eight inches. And after plant- 

 ing keep the hoe working between the 

 plants and water thoroughly during hot, 

 dry weather. See to it that the top soil 

 is always loose; never allow it to become 

 hard and baked, as that prevents the 

 admission of air to the soil and immediately 

 checks growth — and a check in growth 

 invites attacks of aphis. 



Just about the time when the plant is 

 approaching maturity it sometimes hap- 

 pens that the central growth becomes yel- 

 lowish and shrivelled, due, as I believe to an 

 insect, and sometimes called the "blight." 

 Xow I do not believe in aster blight, a 

 conclusion based on extended experience of 

 my own and the opinions of the large aster 

 seed growers of Xew York State. The 

 trouble, whatever it is, can be controlled 

 if growers will spray their plants with arsen- 

 ate of lead and kerosene emulsion at least 

 once a week from the time the plants are 

 four inches high until they come into 

 flower. 



Useful alike for 



