364 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



July, 19 12 



and the most beautiful of all is G. Rothsch- 

 ildiana, rich ruby-crimson and gently un- 

 dulated. When the flowers first open they 

 are considerably reflexed, but with age 

 broaden out becoming horizontal or de- 

 curved. The only specimen I have ever seen 

 of this species was about four feet in height, 

 and the ilowers about four inches in diameter. 



Among the more recent importations 

 there have been many bulbs of Rothschil- 

 diana which vary from the type. They 

 have more or less yellow marked flowers. 

 Some have varied sufficiently to warrant 

 the botanists' naming them var. citrina. 

 The flowers of this variety open a clear 

 citron yellow with a feather-like band of 

 deep claret color up the middle of the seg- 

 ment. As the flowers age, the yellow color 

 suffuses into the claret color until the whole 

 segment becomes tinted. This citron- 

 yellow is very distinct from the more or 

 less buff tinted yellow of superba and other 

 species. Rothschildiana and its varieties 

 will succeed in a somewhat lower tem- 

 perature than the other gloriosas and would 

 likely make an excellent plant for the win- 

 dow garden. 



Similar to the last, but not nearly so 

 handsome, is G. Carsoni, about six feet 

 high with flowers four inches across of a 

 brownish red color, each segment having a 

 narrow margin of golden yellow. 



The climbing lilies are easy to grow. 



They require a warm place — a night 

 temperature of 65 or 75 degrees. The 

 tubers are planted in the early part of the 

 year — January to March. When starting 

 the bulbs plant them in small pots; use 

 ample drainage. Ample drainage in both 

 pot and soil is important. Use a good 

 sandy fibrous loam; one made of one part 

 sand, three parts fibrous compost, and a 

 little charcoal will give good results. Over 

 the drainage put some of the coarser part 

 of the compost, then put in the tuber sur- 

 rounding it with a little sand, and finish 

 by filling the pot with soil, leaving sufficient 

 space at the top for watering. 



Place the newly potted tubers in a warm 

 or stove house and water sparingly with 

 tepid water until growth shows above the 

 ground. Growth once having commenced 

 water copiously, preferably with tepid 

 water. When the plants have filled the 

 pots with roots they must be shifted to the 

 pots in which they will flower; a six- or 

 seven-inch pot is ample for one bulb the 

 first year. Use the same kind of soil as 

 they were started in. Be very careful not 

 to injure the roots when making the shift, 

 for they are brittle and resent injury. For 

 this reason some growers prefer to pot the 

 tubers at the time of starting in the pots 

 in which they are to flower. When the 

 plants have filled the pots with roots give 

 them a watering once a week with a weak 



solution of liquid fertilizer — cow manure 

 is best. 



Once the plants have commenced to 

 make growth supports must be provided. 

 Bamboo, or other light stakes will do, or 

 if the plants are where strings can be used, 

 they will serve just as well. 



The growth of the plants must not be 

 checked at any time, for if anything 

 happens to the stem, it will be fatal to 

 the current year's success. 



After the plants are through blooming, 

 grow them with the same care that has 

 been given previously, because the health 

 of the plant from that time on will de- 

 termine next year's success. When the 

 leaves begin to show that growth is complete 

 — by turning yellow — and the tubers are 

 commencing to ripen, gradually withold the 

 water until they have been dried off. 



During the winter keep them in a warm 

 dry place (60 degrees), and where cold 

 draughts do not strike. 



When the plants are started into growth 

 again the soil can be shaken out from among 

 the tubers and the tubers re-potted in such 

 soil. One grower contents himself with 

 taking off the surface soil in each pot and 

 replacing it with fresh compost. 



Seed is freely produced and the seeds 

 are easy to grow. Sow thinly in pots and 

 plunge the pots in a propagating bench 

 where they can have a little bottom heat. 



The Annuals Best for Bedding— By Adolph Kruhm, 



A DOZEN POPULAR AND EASILY GROWN KINDS THAT BEST FULFIL THE NEEDS 

 OF A BEDDING PLANT. NOW IS THE TIME FOR YOU TO MAKE COMPARISONS 



LET us understand clearly at the start 

 what is meant by "Annuals for 

 Bedding." Flower beds are of two dis- 

 tinct types — the tall, massive kind and 

 the low growing "carpet" bed. In either 

 case, the object is to produce a picture with 

 flowers or contrasting foliage. 



Those flowers, which are by their nature, 

 adapted to the forming of either kind of bed, 

 must necessarily possess certain character- 

 istics in common. 



Every flower bed must be built accord- 

 ing to the laws of design or it is not 

 harmonious. The same principle that 

 underlies the building of a landscape, is 

 found in every pleasing flower bed and the 

 reason why some flower beds are more 

 pleasing than others is that the builder 

 used plants, the growth of which con- 

 formed with the laws of design. 



These facts make it necessary to study 

 the flowers intimately. Not only should 

 the planter know all about their habit of 

 growth and the colors of their flowers; 

 but the length of their blooming season and 

 its well defined limits deserve serious study. 

 In order of their importance I like to put 

 down the following points, which are es- 

 sential in every flower suitable for bedding: 

 (1) Symmetry of growth; (2) Harmoniously 

 blending colors; (3) Length of bloom- 



ing season; (4) Well-defined blooming 

 season; (5) Good assortment of colors in 

 the same class; (6) Different types, as to 

 height, in the same class; (7) Ease of trans- 

 planting after the flowers show color. 



It is surprising to find, after the "sifting 

 down " process, how few among hundreds of 

 annuals really possess all these character- 

 istics in a greater or lesser degree. Indeed, 

 it would be difficult to pick out from 

 among the easily grown flowers, another 



Dwarf French marigold or tagetes. is very satisfactory 

 for edging when yellow is available 



dozen sorts that would create the same 

 degree of satisfaction in the amateur's 

 work. The one great feature in connec- 

 tion with all the annuals named below is 

 that they actually grow easier than grass 

 seed. All (except Ageratum and Petunia) 

 have a coarse seed; all have a strong 

 vitality, inducing quick and even ger- 

 mination; and all are so rugged that 

 frequently weeds born among them have 

 a slim chance for existence. These annuals 

 will grow in any soil, even the poorest, 

 and by actual test, some, like Alyssum, 

 Phlox and Portulaca, will bloom more 

 freely on thin soil than on rich soil. 



It will be noted that the number of "tall" 

 annuals, suitable for centre of beds, is 

 sadly deficient. There are good reasons for 

 this. Short lived plants, like annuals, 

 cannot be expected to grow very tall. 

 Those that do, are, by their nature of 

 growth, unfit for bedding. Most tall 

 annuals are so on account of their flower 

 stems; and the bare stems, extending above 

 the low foliage, do not look well in the 

 formation of beds. On the other hand, 

 balsams, which grow very symmetrically 

 and "bushy," so completely hide their 

 colors under an abundance of foliage that 

 they really can only be considered where 

 green foliage effect is desired. 



