24 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



February, 1918 



ble area is in three parts, to be plowed 

 lengthwise, the rows running north and 

 south. The area farthest from the house 

 is given to strawberries, a good early and 

 a late sort, with a row of the everbear- 

 ing kind. Each year one-fourth the area 

 is rotated with sweet corn; and after the 

 second season's picking the berries are 

 followed by winter turnips, or other late 

 summer vegetable. Thus in each strip four 

 crops are produced in four years; — (i) no 

 crop from the young strawberry plants; (2) 

 heavy berry crop; (3) fair berry crop and late 

 turnips; (4) sweet corn. 



The middle area is devoted to the larger 

 vegetables — peas, beans (pole and dwarf), 

 tomatoes, potatoes, squash, etc., as the 

 family wishes. I find that pole beans give a 

 greater yield per square yard than bush 

 beans, and to avoid the nuisance of yearly 

 poles I put them on two strips of woven 

 wire, as I would Sweet Peas, and make a 

 vista down the centre of the garden. Melons 

 and cucumbers occupy too much ground in 

 proportion to their food value, and are 

 frequently omitted. 



PHE area near the house furnishes the 

 ■*■ salad and small root crops, as radishes, 

 lettuce, beets, onions, carrots, cauliflower, 

 cabbage, kohlrabi, spinach, chard, parsley, 

 etc.; some of the rows yield a succession of 

 crops and the last sowings go into the cold- 

 frame for winter. As these all have orna- 

 mental foilage some of the effects of formal 

 bedding can be gotten in the blues and 

 purples of cabbage and beet, yellows of 

 chard, gray blue of onion, and the contrast 

 of feathery carrots with the broad leaves of 

 lettuce. Try your kitchen herbs by them- 

 selves in a definite scheme, and you will 

 admit that they may rival Coleus and as- 

 sociates for interest to the eye, while they 

 interest the stomach. 



'"PHERE will still be room for a few plants 

 -*- whose sole use is their beauty, even in 

 this utilitarian garden. About a dozen shrubs 

 I have each chosen for some special merit 

 and placed for some specific purpose. Little 

 garden pictures are framed from the living 

 room, and the street, and strangers need not 

 know that behind the house all is dedicated 

 to our food supply. To hide the little flower 

 garden from the direct view from the street I 

 want a shrub with nearly evergreen foilage. 

 I find Fragrant Honeysuckle (Lonicera frag- 

 rantissima), the most effective sub-evergreen 

 for this latitude, and the early fragrant 

 blossoms are a second distinction. With it 

 are low plants of the Shrubby Evergreen 

 Bittersweet (Evonymus radicans vegeta), 

 and this forms a big vine on the big outside 

 chimney. When loaded with its fruit in 

 winter it rivals the classic Holly. A Red 

 and a White Weigela give flower mass in 

 June and heavy foliage t& late autumn. An 

 arching shrub emphasizes two corners of the 

 house; the view to the flower garden from 

 the street in June is framed by a mass of 

 Deutzia; the flower garden is partly separated 

 from the lawn by a few flowering shrubs. 

 For hybrid Roses I have two big rugosa 

 hybrids, and hope to cut big Tea Roses from 

 them all summer, and they will stand six 

 feet high. The Korean Viburnum (Viburnum 

 Carlesii) I love as our Trailing • Arbutus 

 grown to a large shrub. To partly shade one 

 seat I have a pair of Rouen Lilacs (Syringa 

 Chinensis), red and white, the most graceful 

 of the whole group, and over the other seat 



a white and a dark purple Common Lilac 

 trained high. In this way I finally chose 

 the following flowering shrubs (numbers refer 

 to the plan): 



1. Fragrant Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) — 4 



2. White Weigela (Diervilla hybrida Candida) — I 

 2a. Red Weigela (Diervilla hybrida Eva Rathke) — I 



3. Pink Slender Deutzia (Deutzia rosea) — 2 



4. Lemoine's Deutzia (Deutzia Lemoinei) — 1 



5. Hybrid Goldenbell (Forsythia intermedia) — I 



6. Lemoine's Mock Orange (Philadelphus Lemoinei) — I 



7. Double Pink (Rosa rugosa Conrad F. Meyer) — 2 

 Double White (Rosa rugosa Sir Thomas Lipton) — 2 



8. Korean Viburnum (Viburnum Carlesii) — I 



9. Summer Lilac (Buddleia Davidii) — 1 



10. White Rouen Lilac (Syringa chinensis alba) — I 

 Red Rouen Lilac (Syringa chinensis Saugeana) — I 



11. Lilacs Ch as. X. and Marie LeGraye (Syringa vulgaris) — 2 



12. Shrubby Evergreen Bittersweet (Evonymus radicans 



vegota — 8. 



HpHE little flower garden is another 



-*■ admission that my make-up demands 



more than food supply about my home. 





SE,V> RASPBE/RR1E.S 



li— I, 



»~E.i.T"ir 



61DEWALK 



3H3EE25: 



IMattf-. i~ 



5TREI.T « 



This is the lot actually described in the article. It is a real 

 war garden in the best sense of the words 



Again I am restricted in area and in choice, 

 so I have selected about 25 of the best per- 

 ennials for the permanent hardy border, from 

 5 to 10 of each. This is the character of the 

 test: — 



1. Absolute hardiness at all times 



2. Long life without annual shifting 



3. Resistance to drought and disease 



4. Ease of culture 



5. Non-spreading roots 



6. Free and long-continued bloom 



7. Pleasing colors in showy flowers 



8. Value as cut flowers 



I make three great groupings by color,, 

 putting reds in the central part, blues toward 

 the street, and yellows at the south end. 

 The pale colors and the white varieties connect 

 the three groups. I have a succession of 

 bloom from first Squills to Autumn Crocus, 

 and a gradation of heights from back to front,, 

 thus: 



Yellows: 



Late Lemon Lily (Hemerocallis Thunbergii), 3-4 ft. July. 

 Showy Coneflower (Rudbeckia speciosa), 2-3 ft. August. 

 Yellow German Iris (Iris flavescens), 2-3 ft. June. 

 Butterfly-weed (Asclepias tuberosa), 2 ft. July. 

 Lance-leaved Tickseed (Coreopsis lanceolata), 2 ft. June-July. 

 Dwarf Orange Day Lily (Hemerocallis Dumortieri), 2 ft. 



June. 

 Orange Globeflower (Trollius japonicus), 2 ft. May. 

 Gold Dust (Alyssum saxatile compactum), 6 in. May. 

 Yellow Crocus (Crocus Susianus), March-April. 

 Yellow Cottage Tulips, May. 



Reds: 



Oriental Poppy (Papaver orientale in variety), 2-3 ft. June- 

 Garden Peony (Paeonia albiflora in variety), 3 ft. June-July. 



Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis), 2 ft. May-June. 



Gas-plant (Dictamnus albus in variety), 3 ft. June. 



Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata in variety), 2-3 ft. July- 

 August. 



Miss Lingard (Phlox suflTruticosa), 2-3 ft. June-July. 



Mountain Phlox (Phlox ovata), 1 ft. June. 



Scotch Pinks (Dianthus plumarius in variety), 6-12 in. June. 



Moss Pink (Phlox subulata in variety), 6 in. May-June. 



Giant Snowdrops (Galanthus Elwesii), March. 



Tulipa pulchella, T. jinifolia, T. Greigii, T. Sprengeri, etc- 

 May-June. 



Blues: 



Great Blue Flag (Iris pallida in variety), 3-4 ft. June. 



Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica in variety), 3-4 ft. May-June. 



Bee Larkspur (Delphinium formosum in variety), 3-4 ft_ 



June-July. 

 Balloon-flower (Platycodon grandiflorum in variety), 3 ft_ 



July-August. 

 Japanese Speedwell (Veronica Iongifolia subsessilis), 2 ft. 



August-September. 

 Chinese Larkspur (Delphinium grandiflorum in variety), 2 ft_ 



June-August. 

 Greek Valerian (Polermonium reptans), I ft. May. 

 Chickweed Phlox (Phlox Stellaria), 6 in. May. 

 Scilla in variety, March Autumn Crocus (Crocus speciosus), 



September. 

 Darwin Tulips in dark shades. 



HPHE 6-foot fence with the Hall's Honey- 

 -*- suckle is but 4-feet. high back of the 

 flower garden and bears Rambler Roses of 

 the Wichuraiana type — Dorothy Perkins, 

 White Dorothy Perkins, Excelsa, Hiawatha,. 

 Evangeline, and whatever others you wish. 

 For fall bloom, instead of Clematis pani- 

 culata, I have two plants of Climbing Knot- 

 weed (Polygonum baldschuanicum), and I 

 shall try the new P. Aubertii. These have 

 the Clematis outplayed every way as to 

 beauty and grace, and have a longer season 

 of bloom. 



It is certain that little else can be added to 

 the ornamental planting, for the lawn is 

 tiny as it is. But yet plants whose first 

 value is not edibility can be squeezed in here 

 and there. The narrow grass strips along the 

 drive, so shaded that grass will not grow, 

 have been covered with Pachysandra ter- 

 minalis and Lily-of-the-Valley for foilage and 

 flowers, and Squills and Snowdrops shoot up 

 in the spring. Against the piazza I have 

 ferns, only the Cinnamon and Interrupted 



