72 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



March, 19 18 



one sash will be necessary for seeding pur- 

 poses. The rest of the space will he needed 

 after the seeds have germinated, when they 

 will require more room and must be trans- 

 planted. Sowing seeds is done exactly as 

 recommended for sowing in boxes. Ven- 

 tilate freely, on tine days and even on cloudy 

 days .1 little .ur should be admitted, as the hot 

 beds are full of ammonia fumes from the 

 manure. Here again underwatering is pre- 

 ferable to overwatering. With underwater- 

 ing the plants always show distress signs 

 before any serious damage is done. 



Quantity and Spacing of Seeds 



"\X7'HAT seeds are you going to sow? It is 

 * * preferable to temper your ambitions with 

 judgment, and not attempt more than it is pos- 

 sible to accomplish. The plants that should 

 be started in the frame or dwelling now are 

 cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and tomatoes; 

 if you have room include celery, onions, leek, 

 eggplant, and peppers; and where plenty of 

 room is available such as a greenhouse or 

 unlimited frame space, add beets, carrots, pars- 

 ley, French Globe artichoke, and corn in pots. 

 The quantity of seeds depends upon the 

 size of your garden. You must decide 

 whether you want to set out 50 early cab- 

 bages or only 25. There is no sense in raising 

 enough lettuce plants for the neighborhood, 

 and not having any tomatoes for your 

 own. One ounce of cabbage and cauli- 



flower will produce 3,000 plants; one ounce of 

 celery and lettuce seed will produce about 

 5,000 plants; an ounce of tomatoes, onions and 

 leek will produce about 1,500 plants each. 

 One packet of seed of any of the above is all 

 any person would require for early seeding 

 in the home garden. 



The spacing of the seeds is easy to arrive 

 at. Let us take lettuce for example: You 

 want 50 plants. That will take about 12 

 inches of drill or about 12 square inches to 

 start the seeds; the young seedlings when 

 transplanted should have 2 inches of space 

 each way which means a minimum of 

 100 square inches to accommodate 50 

 plants. Twice this space would be better 

 if you can afford the room. Tomatoes, 

 celery, cabbage and cauliflower will require 

 about the same spacing, and in practice this 

 can be taken as the spacing for all seeds started 

 in the frame or dwelling. 



Handling After Starting 



"VX7"HEN the seedlings have made their first 

 » ' character leaf they should be trans- 

 planted where they will have more room to 

 develop. If this be done in the window of 

 the dwelling boxes will serve the purpose very 

 well. It is better to have a separate box for 

 each kind of plant; because not all kinds will 

 be ready for planting outdoors at the same 

 date; tomatoes and cabbages, for example. 

 The former must wait for warmer weather. 



The soil to be used in these boxesshould be the 

 same as was used for sowing with about 20 per 

 cent, well rotted manure added. In frames 

 a space is made ready by proper smoothing and 

 marking off" with lines where the young seed- 

 lings are to be planted. 



Lift the young plants by forcing a trowel 

 underneath and prying up which will keep the 

 roots intact. They should have been well 

 watered a few hours before this to avoid 

 breaking of the roots when separating the 

 seedlings. 



To receive the new plant make a hole about 

 2 inches deep with the point of a lead pencil 

 or a sharpened stick, drop the seedling root 

 • straight down, holding the young plant be- 

 tween the thumb and forefinger of the left 

 hand, press the soil, against the roots by 

 pressing the dibbler in the soil about f inch 

 from the seedling and prying over. The 

 watering, which should be done immediately, 

 will fill the hole and will settle the soil around 

 the roots. 



Shade for a few days after transplanting; 

 but this must not be overdone, in fact total 

 shade for one day is all that is necessary, the 

 second day just a few hours in the middle 

 of the day, and on the third day just around 

 noon. Remember, there is more danger 

 in growing plants too warm than too cool; 

 too much water is much worse than too little; 

 and too much air is better than not 

 enough. 



Newer Climbing Roses of Merit e. 



I. FARRINGTON 



LARGE FLOWERS, BETTER COLORS AND CLEAN HEALTHY FOLIAGE ENDURING WELL INTO WINTER 

 CHARACTERIZE THE MODERN TRELLIS ROSE— AMERICAN RAISED ROSES FOR AMERICAN GARDENS 



FOR a long time the average 

 man chose the Crimson 

 Rambler as a matter of 

 course when he wanted a 

 Climbing Rose, and it is largely 

 planted, even now, although 

 there is no excuse for growing 

 such an inferior variety when Ex- 

 celsa is just as available. Even 

 after the hybridizers had turned 

 their attention to the Climbing 

 Rose amateurs were very slow in 

 accepting the improved sorts. It 

 was twelve years before the splen- 

 did American Pillar Rose acquired 

 anything like widespread recog- 

 nition. 



But this is all changed now, it 

 would seem, and the Climbing 

 Rose has come into its own. The 

 chief difficulty now is in keeping 

 track of the new varieties, so 

 rapidly is the list being extended 

 through the efforts of enthusiastic 

 Rose specialists. Yet some of the 

 newer kinds are so exceptionally 

 fine that they cannot be over- 

 looked. Excelsa 1 already men- 

 tioned has been out for several 

 years but is the best of the red 

 Rambler class, although it may 

 be necessary to say this with a 

 reservation, for W. A. Manda's 

 Dazzling Red now on trial at the 

 Hartford park may be as good, al- 

 though that is doubtful, judging 



Mary Lovett Rose, faptly described as a white flowered Dr. Van Fleet, is another 

 triumph of the successful hybridist Dr. Van Fleet 



from last season's reports. At least, there will 

 be no lack of good red climbers in the future 



and of varieties that are "clean" all through 

 the season, which certain older ones were not. 



The Climbing American Beauty 

 is already fairly well known, its 

 name alone being sufficient to win 

 its trial by amateurs to whom the 

 American Beauty is the Rose by 

 which all other sorts are measured. 

 It is very fragrant, very showy and 

 a splendid Rose forgarden work, al- 

 though possessing one distinct dis- 

 advantage in the fact that it holds 

 its old petals until they have become 

 faded and washed out, giving the 

 bush an unkempt and depressing 

 appearance unless the flowers are 

 kept trimmed off. Hiawatha has 

 much the same habit and the grower 

 should make up his mind that he will 

 need to use the scissors freely when 

 the blooming season is over. Hia- 

 watha, though, is well worth grow- 

 ing, for its brilliance is a revelation 

 to those who have never seen it in 

 flower. The flowers are single, ruby- 

 crimson on the petals but white in 

 the centre, with anthers a rich gol- 

 den yellow. The plants blossom 

 freely from the time they are small 

 bushes and make a good, strong 

 growth, which is of the rambler type 

 and the flowers are retained until 

 late in the season. 



Probably most rose growers will 

 agree that Dr. Van Fleet is the best 

 of the pink climbers recently dis- 

 seminated. Being a Wichuraiana 

 hybrid — the other parent being Sou- 

 venir du Pres. Carnot, it is practically immune 

 to mildew, while the foliage is large and glossy. 



