104 



THE G Alii) EN MAGAZINE 



MutcH, 19 18 





Grow Roses and Keep 



The bow that's always bent soon loses 

 strength. The man or woman who works 

 always at high pressure is soon spent. Some- 

 where, somehow, we all must accumulate 

 strength, enthusiasm and a fresh outlook, 

 else our most earnest efforts to serve our 

 country will fall short 

 "Grow Roses and keep fit." 

 That's Nature's own pre- 

 scription. Begin at once 

 with the wonderful new 



Chinese 

 "Hugonis" Rose 



— a rare variety of great beauty. Its 

 ' yard-long sprays of delicate bloom are 

 of rich yellow. The foliage is dainty 

 and attractive throughout the season. 

 The young shoots of rich crimson lend 

 an added charm. Yet this remarkable 

 new beauty is as hardy as a daisy and 

 a vigorous grower. We recommend it 

 heartily for the lawn or for planting 

 among shrubbery. Own-root pot plants; 

 2 year size, #1.50 each, postpaid. Larger 

 2 year plants, by express, $2; 3 year, by 

 express, #5. 



Every reader of the Garden Magazine should 

 plant at least one "Hugonis" Rose this Spring. 

 And we have enough to go around — if you order 

 promptly. 



Be sure to ask for our 84-page 

 . 1918 Floral Guide — FREE 



The r-ONARD 



WEST GROVE 

 Box 24 PA. 



Robert Pyle, Pres. A. Wintzer, Vict-Pres. 



Rose Specialists — Backed by 50 years' experience 



KA 



- 



it* 



j<: 



" How To Grow Roses " 



— an illustrated 32-page booklet which 

 we will send with 25c return check good on 

 first $1 order and our 84-page 1918 Floral 

 Guide. All for only 10c. Send to-day. 



ft 







Handy Box of Plant Labels 



Assortment complete from i\ inch tag label, copper wired, 

 to 10 inch garden label, 300 in all, with marking pencil; packed 

 in a neat strong box for mailing. Needed in every garden. 

 An appropriate present to a friend interested in gardening. 

 Price $1.20 postpaid. Beyond the fourth zone add fifteen cents. 



W. H. BAYLES, Verona, New Jersey 



HANDSOME HARDY AMERICANS 



arrive at the front as constantly inourgardensasthey doinFrance. 

 All gardening that is rich, harmonious, permanent — even 

 through winters like this last — requires them in quantity. A 

 mere barbaric blur of color in gaudy fleeting foreign stuff is not a 

 garden. On early orders we offer discounts, that, popular as 

 they are already, should help them to win many trenches. A 

 card brings them. 

 HARDY EVERGREEN GARDENS, Route 1, Old Fort, N.C. 







COLLAPSIBLE FORCING FRAME 



SOMETHING NEW UNDER THE SUN 



Garden hobbyists everywhere will be interested in two new devices de- 

 signed to increase gardening results and joys 

 For Forcing Vegetables, etc.. is a The Prnpngator is the greatest 

 rigid frame, so braced that glass little "hothouse" ever invented, 

 cannot be blown out. and is water- Heated by lamp. Great for forcing 

 tight. Price, $i. 50 each (without seeds and seedling plants. Prices 

 glass,). from $7.00 and upwards. 



"Write for descriptive circular of these novelties. Ask your nearest hor- 

 ticultural dealer for full prices. F. O. B. Boston. 



The Horticultural Appliance Co., 143 Federal St., Boston, Mass. 





-r-oc> pe m 





fftC/16ftT 



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9. 



Putting a Push Into the War 

 Garden 



Do You Want Early Vegetables? — I am 

 anxious to get vegetables sufficiently large for 

 eating by June — -I mean vegetables such as 

 carrots and beets, and perhaps dwarf peas and 

 beans (lettuces and radishes present com- 

 paratively no difficulty). The usual time" 

 for sowing vegetable seeds here in the open is 

 about the third week in April. Could I 

 grow them in hotbeds and if so, what depth 

 of earth is required? Stable manure is easy 

 to procure. Or perhaps some readers could 

 give me his experience of "forcers" or 

 "cloches." But I am afraid the ground here 

 would be too cold for the seeds to germinate 

 under either of the latter methods. The reason 

 why I want early vegetables is that I am 

 away from home in July and August. — /. //. 

 Woodcock, Canada. 



[ — By selecting extra early or forcing strains 

 of first early types of vegetables, it should not 

 prove difficult to enjoy carrots, beets, dwarf 

 peas and beans during June. Both French 

 Forcing and Chantenay Carrot will reach 

 edible size by middle of June from seeds 

 sown middle of April. Carrots are not 

 transplanted easily, but cloches will help 

 until the seedlings are fairly well started. 

 Beets may be started in hotbeds and are 

 easily transplanted. A foot of manure cov- 

 ered by 5 inches of finely sifted soil makes a 

 hotbed. Beet seeds may be sown outdoors 

 as soon as ground can be dug. Either Eclipse, 

 Crosby's Egyptian or Detroit Dark Red will 

 reach the z\ inch size within 60 days. Smooth- 

 seeded peas of the dwarf type, such as Alaska, 

 Pedigree Extra Early and Prolific Extra Early 

 will bear pods within 55 days after sowing 

 and may be planted almost as soon as snow 

 and frost leave the ground. By pressing 

 into service dirt bands or paper pods, Boun- 

 tiful Beans may be gathered by middle of 

 June from seeds sown early in April. — Ed.] 



Does Anybody Know? — Can the potato 

 yield be increased by the subtle method of 

 fooling the potato plant into developing later 

 small tubers through robbing it of the earlier 

 ones as soon as they attain full size? It would 

 look like a sound proposition at first flush, 

 because the potato makes its tubers in order 

 to "carry on." The natural process being 

 interrupted, and being robbed of the fruit (or tu- 

 ber)of its prevision, it proceeds to bridge the gap 

 by further activity. This is how it works out 

 with Sweet Peas, Pansies, etc. — the more you 

 pick the more you have. On the other hand, 

 of course, it may be argued that the Sweet 

 Pea and the Pansy are not parallel because 

 they are going to seed, whereas the tuber pro- 

 duction is something quite apart from going 

 to seed, and it may not work the same way. 

 I asked Mr. Gilbert, who wrote — "The Potato" 

 book, what he thought, and he sees it differ- 

 ently and speaks of heredity in this way: 



"I do not believe that 'succession harvest- 

 ing,' that is, by removing as early as possible 

 one or two developed tubers, will help per- 

 manently in any way to increase the yield of 

 potatoes. It may induce the plant at that 

 time to produce more tubers, but you can 

 readily understand that this has no effect 

 on the germ cells of the plant and therefore 

 it does not enter into heredity. The most 

 satisfactory method of increasing yields at 

 the present time is to practice the so-called 

 'hill selection.' This is choosing seed from 

 hills that have given the largest percentage 

 of merchantable tubers. This can be as 

 (Continued on page 106.) 



The Readers' Service is prepared to help you solve your gardening problems 



