April, 19 18 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



133 



A peach comes into bearing very soon and can be eliminated 

 as the longer-lived trees mature 



are set, a larger amount the next year, and 

 increasing quantities each year thereafter. 

 Now, my aim is to emphasize the fact that 

 very considerable economies may be made 

 without in the least jeopardizing the success 

 of the trees and bushes, if interplanting is 

 intelligently planned and the plan properly 

 carried out. Perhaps the best way to explain 

 this will be to use a diagram. 



All Fruits on the Average Suburban Lot 



CUPPOSE an area which easily divides 

 ^ into units, say 48 feet square. I use this 

 unit because it is approximately the size of 

 many suburban back yards. Suppose that 

 we want a succession of all the kinds of fruits 

 and as many varieties as that area can be 

 made to produce. What can be done? 



Plant a standard apple tree at each corner. 

 If desired we may have four varieties grafted 

 on each tree as Mr. Hamblin pointed out in 

 The Garden Magazine of February. If 

 we have each of the four frame-branches on 

 each tree grafted each 

 with a variety that 

 ripens at a different 

 season we may have 

 an unbroken succes- 

 sion of fruit from early 

 summer until late 

 spring and by this 

 plan will theoretically 

 distribute the ener- 

 gies so that the tree 

 will not feel a "drain" 

 at any time. The 

 same plan may be 

 followed with each of 

 the tree fruits so that 

 by multiplying the 

 number of trees men- 

 tioned by four we 

 will have the number 

 of varieties possible 

 to grow under the 

 plan being discussed. 



To proceed: in the 

 centre of the square 

 place a sweet cherry 



tree, preferably of a variety not locally obtain- 

 able, for instance Black Tartarian, Governor 

 Wood, Bing, or Schmidt. Half waybetween the 

 apple trees place peach trees of varieties that will 

 form a succession. Champion or Hiley, Craw- 

 ford Early, Old Mixon, Lamont, and Millet will 

 cover the season from mid August to mid 

 October. In the centres of the small squares 

 place successional varieties of plums. Abund- 

 ance and Burbank are good early ones; 

 Middleburg and Archduke good late. In- 

 stead of two of the plums or the peaches use 

 sour cherries if preferred. The best varieties 

 for succession are Early Richmond, Mont- 

 morency, and English Morello. Halfway be- 

 tween the trees already set place dwarf trees — 

 mostly pears (Angouleme, Louise Bonne, Mor- 

 ceau, Anjou, White Doyenne and Cornice) 

 — but some apricots (Harris, Moorpark, 

 St. Ambrose, and Large Early) and perhaps 

 some cherries, plums, and peaches. In the 

 first row reading up and down place a currant 

 bush (Ruby, Pomona, Perfection, and Wilder) 

 half way between each two trees; in the second, 

 a gooseberry bush (Red Jacket, Dr. Van 

 Fleet, Poorman, and Chatauqua); in the 

 third, fourth, and fifth, a black raspberry 

 plant (Black Diamond, Farmer, Kansas, or 

 Gault). 



The trees and shrubs in these rows are now 

 6 feet apart — a liberal distance even accord- 

 ing to best practice. Between the rows are 

 12-foot spaces. In the middle of the first of 

 these plant a continuous row of red rasp- 

 berries, the plants being set 3 feet apart in 

 the rows; for instance, Cuthbert, Herbert, 

 St. Regis, Marlboro, or Douboro. In the 

 second, a purple kind for canning (Shaffer, 

 Columbian, Philadelphia, or Cardinal). In 

 the third, Golden Queen, which is the only 

 really good yellow variety now generally 

 obtainable in the nurseries. The fourth row 

 may be of blackberries (Joy, Kittatinny, 

 Mercereau, Blowers, or Eldorado). A row of 

 Lucretia dewberries may be substituted for 

 any one of these. There's space enough if 

 the blackberries are kept within bounds by 

 judicious pruning. 



Room for Vegetables Too 



T3 EADING up and down on the chart 

 ■^-^■there are six foot intervals between the 

 rows as well as between the plants in the tree 

 rows. In each of the former there is space 

 for a row of vegetables (preferably of kinds 



Interplanting vegetables in the young orchard helps it pay its way. Now-a-days it is wisdom to prepare for the demand 

 for fruit that will surely come, by interplanting the vegetable patch 



Why not an apple tree, at least in every home, garden. 

 The investment is small and when fruits come. Oh! — ! 



that demand clean cultivation until mid- 

 summer, but not during August or September, 

 because tillage during those months tends to 

 encourage late growths of trees and consequent 

 winter injuries). Stirring the soil during 

 October as in harvesting the vegetables is 

 perhaps not objectionable unless deep as in 

 digging potatoes, parsnips, and other deep- 

 rooted vegetables. 



And the Strawberries as Well 



STRAWBERRIES may be grown instead 

 of the truck crops. Three plants 18 

 inches apart may also be set between the 

 trees and shrubs, thus giving 24 plants to the 

 row or 120 to the patch. If everbearing 

 kinds are used (such as Progressive or Su- 

 perb) they will yield the same season as 

 ■planted and again the following summer, but 

 will probably fail toward the close of the 

 second year because of the shade and the 

 demands of the trees 

 and bushes for food. 

 The other strawberry 

 rows which would be 

 of "ordinary" kinds 

 will bear the season 

 following and if well 

 managed bear again 

 the next year, though 

 this is not usually 

 advisable. Premier, 

 Dr. Burrill, Ekey, 

 Chesapeake andOrem 

 will cover the general 

 season from early 

 to late. Immediately 

 after gathering the 

 fruit the plants should 

 be plowed under, the 

 furrows harrowed or 

 cultivated level and 

 a dust mulch main- 

 tained until after 

 raspberry and black- 

 berry harvest. If the 

 strawberry plants are 



