Taking the Beginner into Confidence 



The Why and Wherefore of Common Things -Getting Brain Power to Work— Making the Start with Sense 



GARDEN practice, in every instance, 

 is based soundly on reason, and a 

 common sense answer may be 

 found to every one of the seemingly 

 arbitrary or rule-of-thumb methods of pro- 

 cedure. 1 he best gardener is he who is most 

 inquisitive and looks for the reason behind 

 the action, and decides for himself whether 

 or not it applies to his own conditions. For 

 example, drawing earth up around all and 

 every plant because it is a good practice in 

 some cases is a quite common blunder, and 

 though frequently of no consequence, often 

 does real harm, especially with shrubs. 



Why Plants are Hilled 



'"PI IK terms "hill" and "hilling" as ap- 

 •*■ plied in the garden are likely to be mis- 

 leading to the beginner who naturally assumes 

 that they refer to raised mounds, whereas, in 

 fact, almost without exception the seeds are 

 sown in level drills and the "hilling" is done 

 after the plants have made considerable 

 growth. A few of our crops are liable to stem 

 rot and an excess of moisture around the 

 stem of the plant aggravates this trouble. 

 Therefore, muskmelons, cucumbers, pump- 

 kins, squash, and lima beans may be sown in 

 raised "hills" not more than two inches above 

 the surrounding grade; but all other vegetables 

 that are hilled have the soil drawn up around 

 them after they have attained a fair size. 

 The advantage of "hilling" i. e., drawing up 

 earth around the stem of the plant is to 

 protect weak stemmed plants against blow- 

 ing over during heavy rain storms (string 

 beans, corn). In some cases plants send out 

 a new rooting system from the newly covered 

 portion of the stem (corn and tomatoes). 



Potatoes are hilled when they are in flower as at this time the 

 tubers are forming and this extra earth acts as a mulch con- 

 serving the moisture and protecting the young tubers. As- 

 paragus is sometimes hilled when the crown (which gradually 

 raises) gets too near the surface. In large plantings this is 

 accomplished by turning a furrow on the row with a plow; 

 in small gardens a hoe can be used. String beans are hilled to 

 protect them from storms when the plants have started to 

 branch out freely. Cabbage and cauliflower that are spindly 

 from overcrowding in the seedling bed or excess of shade may 

 be hilled slightly after they are thoroughly established, in 

 order to get an approach to normal. Celery is often hilled as 

 it grows to keep the shoots from spreading which would expose 

 the heart and toughen it. But some gardeners keep the plants 

 tied together with raffia and the hilling is done at one time in 

 the fall, which is preferable. Corn is hilled when about 12 in. 

 high to prevent breakage by storm. Leek is hilled as it grows, 

 to lengthen the stem which is the edible portion of the plant. 

 Peas are hilled when about 6 in. high to protect them until 

 brush or other support can be applied. 



. Why We Thin Plants 



THINNING out" of plants is a necessary 

 evil. The ideal condition would be to 

 sow just enough seed so that no thinning out 

 would be necessary; but that is impractical 

 and it is physically impossible. Kor instance, 

 in order to assure three strong healthy lima 

 bean plants to each hill, we sow six seeds and 

 thin out later to three plants, discarding the 

 weak. This uses double the actual quantity 

 of seed to insure our crop, but is by no means an 

 economic waste. Onions, beets, carrots and 

 other seed of this type sown in an open drill 

 must be sown thickly enough to assure a good 

 stand and to relieve the danger from a poor 

 thin row caused by a low percentage of 

 germination. In some cases ants or other 

 insects destroy the seeds, birds pull out the 

 tiny seedlings when they first appear above 

 ground, or insects may destroy some. 



The danger of using too much seed lies in 

 thin spindly plants because of lack of light 

 and air. To prevent this the row should be 



thinned out just as soon as the -seedlings can be 

 handled. The roots of the seedlings will 

 interlock if they get large causing large clumps 

 of earth to loosen and removing many de- 

 sirables with the undesirables. While "thin- 

 ing out" also remove weeds in the row 

 which are out of the reach of the cultivator 

 or hoe. 



Corn, watermelon, muskmelons, squash, pumpkins, cu- 

 cumbers, pole limas and other pole beans when sown in hills 

 are usually planted 6 seeds to a hill and thinned out to 3 plants 

 after the danger period is passed; carrots and onions are thinned 

 to about 2 to 3 in. apart according to variety; chicory, kohlrabi, 

 turnip and beets are thinned out to 4 in. apart; about 6 in. 

 apart is the proper distance for celeriac, parsley, parsnip, 

 Swiss chard, rutabagas and salsify. Golden Bantam or other 

 dwarf corns will stand a spacing of 8 in. while the larger types 

 such as Stowcll's Evergreen should have at least 12 in. which 

 is also the proper distance for endive, lettuce, okra and New 

 Zealand spinach. 



Watering in Rows 



/"\N SOME seed packets holding seeds 

 y~^ with very hard jackets you may find the 

 instruction "soak seed for 24 hours before 

 sowing." The soaking of course hastens 

 germination, because it assures the supply of 

 moisture to the seed. The beginner working 

 on the theory that "if a little is good a whole 

 lot must be better" proceeds to apply this to 

 all seeds and pays the price of misdirected 

 energy. Seed soaking done without regard 

 to existing weather conditions may start the 

 young roots into a false growth, reaching out 

 for non-existing soil moisture. If warm 

 water is used to soak the seeds and they are 

 then put into a cold uncongenial soil without 

 further ceremony, obviously loss may occur. 

 A much better plan is to thoroughly saturate 

 the drill to supply the needed moisture for 

 those seeds that require it, as the young 

 roots then find the necessary moisture to 

 continue their growth and at an even tem- 

 perature. 



During continued dry weather follow this system when 

 sowing seeds: After making the seed drill, keep it filled with 

 water for several hours. The moisture penetrating into the 

 earth will encourage the roots downward and the dry soil on 

 top will help conserve it, a very desirable combination. Certain 

 objectors condemn all practices of this kind on the ground 

 that growth is only in proportion to the natural condition. 

 No doubt all such would like to go back to our first "natural" 

 apples or other fruit. 



Successional Sowings 



pHE essential of a successful vegetable 

 A garden is unfailing vigilance in the new 

 sowings of quick maturing crops, and sub- 

 sequent care of the growing plants. But, if 

 the sowings are not timely no amount of later 

 care will offset the initial error. A working 

 rule very easy to keep in mind and which is 

 founded on normal growing conditions is to 

 make a practice of making successional 

 sowings when the -preceding sowing is showing 

 above ground. Quantity may be definitely 

 measured by requirements, but continuity of 

 crop must be judged by growth. For example, 

 beans can be had all summer by sowings made 

 at intervals of approximately two weeks. A 

 half row, or even a quarter row, with the other 

 sections sown at proper intervals is preferable 

 to one large sowing where the product neces- 

 sarily gets tough and stringy before it can be 

 used. 



Peas, spinach and radishes are cool crops, and can be sown 

 at frequent intervals until June 1st; then discontinued until 

 fall. In summer the peas mildew, the spinach runs to seed and 

 the radishes get "hot" and useless. Beets and carrots should 

 be sown throughout the entire summer, in small quantities 

 and just as the previous sowings are "showing;" the last 

 sowing not later than August 1st and can be of large pro- 

 portions to assure roots for winter storage. Cucumbers, al- 

 though continuous bearers, are best if sown at intervals to have 

 young vigorous productive vines in bearing at all times, because 



180 



the old vines get seedy and unproductive to a certain extent and 

 when young vigorous vines are available the old ones should ' 

 be torn out and discarded; make sowings until July 15th. Corn 

 can also be sown at periods until July 15th, regulating the 

 quantities to suit requirements, but never breaking the se- 

 quence. Lettuce about every 2 weeks until September 1st 

 using the non-curling or small heading types lor summer as the 

 larger heading types then run to seed too quickly. Endive is a 

 fall vegetable certain to be tough and flavorless during summer, 

 so start sowing in July and continue until September 1st. 



Setting Out "Warm" Vegetables 



"^"OTHING is gained at any time by 

 ^ ~ setting out plants until the weather 

 conditions are favorable. Lettuce, cabbage, 

 cauliflower, onions, leek and early celery are 

 all quite hardy and can usually be set out in 

 late April or early May; but eggplant, 

 peppers, tomatoes, muskmelons, corn, squash 

 and pumpkins are all tender and when started 

 indoors must not be planted out in the open 

 until the ground is warm and growing con- 

 ditions are favorable. Nearly all those 

 classed as "tender" are crops of one seeding, 

 and if destroyed by a belated frost or even 

 injured by a spell of cold damp weather the 

 entire garden effort for the season so far as 

 they are concerned is jeopardized. With 

 crops that are sown at intervals (such as 

 corn), this first planting is for early maturity, 

 and if lost no great harm is done since 

 subsequent sowings made out of doors will 

 be safe and form the bulk of the yield. If pot 

 grown plants are used for this work there is 

 little actual danger in transplanting, but when 

 these plants are raised in boxes or beds (and 

 the roots must be disturbed in transplanting) 

 care needs be exercised, the first consideration 

 being that the ground is ready in advance to 

 receive them. Don't have the plants laying 

 around in the sun and wind while you dig a 

 a place for them. The importance of proper 

 planting is too often overlooked and lacking 

 the essentials of a proper start, the plants usu- 

 ally limp along for a short time rarely yield 

 satisfactorily, and in fact midsummer usually 

 finds them a victim of "dry weather." 



Make a drill for transplanting, just as you would for sowing 

 seed. Set the line and get it straight. Sprinkle a little fertilizer 

 in the drill to give the plants a. flying start; this you can work 

 in the soil with a trowel as you plant. Set the plants the re- 

 quired distance apart and start planting from one end. Chop 

 the ground thoroughly with the trowel pressing it down as 

 deeply as possible and make the hole sufficiently large to 

 accommodate the roots. Then firm the plants in place and 

 soak the ground thoroughly with water, using as prinkling can 

 for this purpose, which assures 'the perfect settlement of earth 

 around the roots which it was necessary to disturb in the 

 planting. A little shade should be applied for a few days or 

 until the roots have started activity. 



Getting the Peas on the Stakes 



/~\RDINARY birch twigs or branches ofoth- 

 \^ er deciduous trees or shrubs are the best 

 means of supporting peas, as they allow the 

 vines to ramble in nature's fashion preventing 

 crowding with its consequent bad effects. 

 When seed is sown in wide rows a double row 

 of pea brush, one on each side of the row, is 

 preferred, even though you are short of 

 brush. The chief fault of a single row is 

 danger from storms. Don't wait until a 

 storm has flattened down the vines before 

 supporting them, the brush should be applied 

 when the vines are about 6 to 8 in. high; 

 there \z no need of attempting to tie or train 

 the vines, they will take very good care of 

 themselves if you give them the necessary 

 support, before they feel the lack of it. A 

 poultry wire support is a very good substitute 

 for brush, the mesh being at least 2 inch to 

 facilitate the picking of the pods. A single 

 row of support is customary when wire is 

 used. 



