186 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



May, 1918 



of banks all over the country gave these 

 instructions out over their counters with their 

 compliments and urged their patrons to grow 

 food. 



The daily garden and canning lessons 

 prepared by the Commission and sent to 

 newspapers all over the United States were 

 printed not only in this country but in Canada 

 and used as models in other countries, while 

 hundreds of thousands of people have written 

 for instruction in gardening to the National 

 War Garden Commission or to the U. S. 

 Department of Agriculture. 



TN MANY places historic ground is being 

 ■*■ tilled by the war gardeners. At Cald- 

 well, N. J., for instance, the ground on the 

 estate surrounding the Old Presbyterian 

 Manse, the birthplace of Grover Cleveland, 

 was plowed for the Boy Scouts who are busy 

 fighting the Kaiser with the hoe. The Hoe 

 and rakes will help defeat the Hohenzollerns. 



In many cities large sections of the public 

 parks and of city lands are being utilized for 

 war gardens, while in Norfolk, Va., the Com- 

 mission on City Beautification promoted 

 the war garden movement because it meant 



the cleaning up of many unsightly vacant 

 lots. Similarly in other cities the improve- 

 ment of conditions was an added reason for 

 encouraging home food production. The 

 value of property was increased at the same 

 time that the nation was being benefited. 



Many cities are delighting in the new name 

 which can now literally be applied to them of 

 "Garden City." It is a name which has taken 

 on a new meaning and which gives a new 

 pride. It gains in glory with its increase in 

 numbers. Membership in the Society of 

 Garden Cities is a token of American honor. 



The War Garden in Action a. kruhm 



Insistent Details of this Month of May — Thinning the Lines to Get Space 



THE most important work this 

 month is the "thinning out" of 

 seedlings! Now, in spite of all 

 preachments to sow seeds sparingly, 

 it is but human to count on the infinitesimal 

 cost of the individual seed and to say "Better 

 to put in a few extra seeds now than later to 

 wish I had," — etc., etc. 



"Spare the plants and spoil the crops" 

 applies to all vegetable rows alike. What you 

 gain in number of plants per row, you lose in 

 size or productiveness of plant. Root crops 

 such as beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, etc., 

 should be thinned out to stand from one to 

 four inches apart in the row, depending on 

 class and variety. 



Consider radishes, for instance. The 

 space needed for each root is governed by the 

 size of the top the plant has to develop to 

 form a good root. With the small, cherry- 

 stone varieties, the distance of i in. is sufficient 

 for each root, because the tops seldom have 

 more than six small leaves. For the longer, 

 later sorts, such as Scarlet Short Top, Icicle, 

 Cincinnati Market, etc., allow 3 to 4 ins. 

 apart in the row. 



Generally speaking, beets, carrots, and 

 turnips require 3 to 4 in. of space in the row. 

 Yet, it is hardly safe to sow one seed every 

 three or four inches, because of possible 

 lack of germination of seeds, insects, contrary 

 weather and many other factors beyond the 



planter's control. Unfortunately, of these four 

 root crops only one lends itself to transplanting. 

 Beets do very well when transplanted quite 

 young. Don't bother trying to transplant 

 carrots, radish, or turnips. Except in very 

 few instances (governed by unusual soil and 

 ideal weather conditions), even carrots will 

 disappoint. Radishes and turnips are entirely 

 out of the transplanting question. 



"Plant in haste and re-plant at leisure" 

 is a good adage to keep in mind throughout 

 the month. Don't risk your tomato, pepper, 

 and eggplants, nor the beans, cucumbers, and 

 corn, simply because, for a few days, the sun 

 will register good intentions. Remember that 

 May nights offer a chilly reception to summer's 

 wooing. 



It's a fact that a "chilled" planting of all 

 the soft or tender vegetables will require a 

 longer time to recuperate than a new planting 

 will require to catch up to the first planting. 

 Time and again I have found it profitable to 

 hoe out a frosted (but not "killed") row of 

 bush beans rather than to wait for it to get 

 over the setback. 



Study local weather conditions. If the 

 average last frost for the last twenty years 

 has been around May 25th, figure on that 

 date. It is safe to figure that the majority of 

 seedlings require a week or ten days before 

 they peep through the soil. Don't sow seed of 

 tender crops until you know that the seedlings 



Remember "spare the plant and ruin the crop." Each plant will give best returns only when it has room to grow 



will show after the last cool night has made its 

 "adieu." 



The season has brought many seed short- 

 ages, but none can compare with those re- 

 corded in beans and corn. Among beans, the 

 bush varieties especially are so scarce that an 

 advance of 100 per cent, in retail prices is the 

 rule. It simply means that you are paying 

 twice as much to make a start as you ever 

 paid before. To make the best of the situation, 

 put seeds six inches apart in the row and 

 give every plant a better chance to develop. 

 Bigger individual plants will bear better 

 crops of larger individual pods. 



You used to be willing to "take a chance" 

 with an early sowing of Golden Bantam 

 sweet corn outdoors, because seedsmen say 

 that Golden Bantam kernels don't rot as 

 easily as those of other sorts. Don't take that 

 chance this year ! Golden Bantam is worth 

 fifteen cents a pound in carload lots! Every 

 seed of it, this year, is like a little gold 

 nugget. You may still gather extra early 

 ears by starting some plants in paper pots 

 indoors or in a coldframe. Four kernels per 

 pot will insure three sturdy plants per hill. 



This is the month to prepare for the gath- 

 ering next fall of such root crops as re- 

 quire a long season to develop. Parnsip and 

 salsify as well as witloof chicory should be 

 sown this month or the roots will not reach 

 full size before frost. Why pay ten to fifteen 

 cents for a bunch of four to six roots for these 

 crops next winter when a timely sowing in 

 May will insure the supply? 



Anything you may sow this month must 

 be prepared to "run into a spell" of hot or 

 dry weather during June or July. Govern 

 your planting plans accordingly, and select 

 best succeeding strains. For example: Don't 

 sow Big Boston or Boston Market or Simpson 

 Lettuce. They'll just yield a crop of seed 

 stalks or "flabby" plants. Sow AH Seasons, 

 New York Crisphead, or Cos varieties for 

 cutting during June, July, and August. 



For the same reason it does not pay 

 (except in Northern localities) to plant such 

 cool season crops as cress, spinach, turnips, 

 onions from sets, etc., during May. The time 

 to enjoy them again is during September and 

 October, from sowings made during late 

 August. Study the planting chart and zone 

 map in last month's Garden Magazine. 



