46 RIO JANEIRO. 



behind those of our own country. The churches, which are numerous, 

 are falling into decay, which gives a dilapidated look to the city ; its 

 religious ceremonies are dispensed with, and to crown all, the steps of 

 the churches are made a market-place for the sale of sheep, pigeons, 

 fruit, &c. To judge from appearances, and the attendance on its 

 services, there exists little religious feeling towards the Roman Church. 

 It is true, the same constant ringing of bells occurs that is to be heard 

 in all Catholic countries, and other outward signs are still kept up ; but 

 the priesthood are not regarded with such awe as they formerly were, 

 and society seems to be breaking through the trammels that have so 

 long enslaved the female portion of it. Religion is a mere name 

 among the youth of Brazil. The aged are still observant of its cere- 

 monies, but little or no attention is paid to the Sabbath. The stores 

 do business, and the workshops are open the same as on other days. 

 A few are seen going to worship in the morning of that day, but a 

 greater number attend the billiard-tables in the afternoon, and the 

 theatres at night. There is an Episcopal church, and a missionary 

 of the Methodist persuasion from the United States resident here. 



We saw Rio de Janeiro under its most favourable aspect, that of 

 the holidays, when the church had put on all her finery and decora- 

 tions, and every one, slave as well as master, seemed intent upon 

 enjoying himself. The Christmas week or holidays give a respite 

 from all labour, and various are the amusements. The churches 

 are decked, and the services extraordinary. 



The neglect of the public walks and roads shows a want of proper 

 attention, and strikes the visiter as di fie rent from the usual order of 

 things around a court. So far as cleanliness goes, Rio, I should 

 think, is not much improved. It has every advantage to make it 

 a clean city, but the inclination appears to be wanting. Neither do I 

 intend to assert that its style of building is changed. Although the 

 government is doing little, one sees the spirit of enterprise among 

 the citizens. Many private dwellings are being erected, and I under- 

 stood that many other improvements were taking place. 



The houses of the city are strongly built of stone, cemented together 

 with clay ; this is used in consequence of the scarcity of lime, which 

 is only obtained by burning shells fished up from the bay. The houses 

 are plastered on the outside, and have a pretty appearance and colour. 

 The floors, beams, and roofs, are made of the hard wood of the coun- 

 try, of great size and strength, which are indeed necessary from the 

 great tile roof they have to bear. Very few of the houses have yards, 

 cellars, or gardens : consequently the dwellers are still greatly incom- 

 moded from the want of water-closets, detrimental both to health and 



