RIO JANEIRO. 



65 



frequented are the Rua Direita and Ouvidor. The former, containing 

 the palace and cathedral, is the broadest in the city. In the latter are 

 the principal shops, and it is the gayest. The streets are paved with 

 blocks of stone. The houses are for the most part two stories in height, 

 and notwithstanding the materials are strong, yet the red tiled roofs 

 overhang in places fearfully. The interior of the houses will not bear 

 inspection. Ceilings, walls, and floors, are all exceedingly rough. In 

 those of the better kind, the walls and ceilings are plastered, and have 

 ornamented designs painted in fresco. Silk hangings are much in 

 vogue. I was struck with the want of light and ventilation in the 

 rooms and houses. The city in some parts has a triste appearance, 

 but in others there are few places which show so much stir and bustle, 

 particularly when it is considered that wheeled vehicles are not used 

 for transportation. What gives Rio its principal charm are its suburbs 

 and the small quintas around it. Nothing can exceed the beauty of 

 those around Gloria and Botofogo. These situations are general 1 ;/ 

 occupied by foreigners established here in business. 



The amusements of riding and fishing, with water excursions, are 

 frequent, and of the most agreeable kind. These and other advantages 

 of so fine a climate, soon render a residence at Rio quite desirable. 

 There is much pleasant foreign society, composed of the diplomatic 



vol. i. 9 



