70 RIO JANEIRO. 



from Estrella, is about ten miles, due north. The country is flat, with 

 occasional undulations. About two miles from Estrella they came to 

 a guard-house, where they were stopped. Their guide not being at 

 hand, and not understanding the language themselves, they supposed 

 their passports were demanded, and believing the reports to be true 

 that we had all heard so often of the jealousy of the Brazilians in 

 relation to the admission of foreigners into the interior, they concluded 

 they were now to experience it. But on the guide coming up, the 

 matter was soon arranged by the payment of a small tax, which was 

 the only passport they found necessary. The ascent of the pass is 

 made by a well-paved zigzag road. They soon reached the house of 

 Padre Luiz, where they were kindly and hospitably received, and 

 supper was supplied them from his scanty larder. 



Padre Luiz's house was quite spacious : a long one-story building, 

 containing under the same roof the stable and storehouse, as well as 

 accommodations for travellers and the females of the family. The 

 latter, agreeably to the custom of the country, were not seen, though 

 known to exist. Cold and wet, our travellers were ushered into an 

 apartment where there was neither floor nor fire, and in which there 

 was a free circulation of air through the cracks and crevices in the 

 walls. The roof, however, was tight, which was lucky, as it was 

 raining hard. A little further insight and experience into the customs 

 and comforts of the country, made them think that the accommodations 

 here had been excellent. After a most unreasonable delay, coffee, a 

 fowl, and rice were set before them, with much parade and ceremony. 

 During the night they heard what was supposed to be the howling 

 monkey, but upon inquiry it turned out to be a Brazilian toad, called 

 in Brazil " the blacksmith," whose croak is said to resemble very 

 much the sound of hammering on an anvil. 



The next morning, understanding that they had been treated with 

 luxuries and as persons of distinction, they told their host that they 

 preferred the dish of the country," came seca" and " farinha," which, 

 with the addition of a few eggs and a cup of coffee, made an excellent 

 meal, and was quickly served. 



They rode this day about twenty miles beyond the Organ Moun- 

 tains, the extent to which their jaunt reached. On their way, they 

 met vast numbers of mules heavily laden. The roads were generally 

 good, and very little expense would have made them excellent for 

 carriages. 



At Padre Coneas', at the top of the pass, they found a native fig- 

 tree, of enormous size, with numerous parasitical plants upon it. It 



