RIO JANEIRO. 71 



was to them quite a novelty from its low branches, which extended hori- 

 zontally and covered a space of one hundred and forty feet in diameter. 



After leaving the Estrella Pass, the descent was very gradual, the 

 route lying among the mountains. Crossing the river Paibanha, they 

 reached a hamlet beautifully situated on the brow of a hill, and com- 

 manding an extensive view of the country. Here they found the 

 place well suited to their employment of making collections of 

 plants, and resolved to stop. Their host kept a small store, and had a 

 German for salesman, who was greatly delighted at finding that Mr. 

 Brackenridge could speak his language. He paid them great atten- 

 tion, and provided amply for their wants. 



They were gratified by the rich botanical field that was open to 

 them. Among the plants, or trees, were Cupheas, with deep purple 

 flowers, and others with lilac ; Lobelias fifteen feet high, with spikes 

 of blue flowers three feet long; and Acacias in full flower. Cyrtopo- 

 dium Andersonii grew on the rocks in bunches, &c. Several trees 

 of the Araucaria Brasiliensis, from seventy to eighty feet high, were 

 found in the valley, which Mr. Brackenridge succeeded in climbing, 

 and obtained two handsome cones. The rivers were also searched 

 for shells, but the water was too high to afford success. 



Returning at dark they found the German had provided supper, 

 which was soon served. It consisted of bean soup, Indian bread, fried 

 jerked beef, and sausages : they had the satisfaction of eating the meal 

 on their knees, for there was no table, but one spoon, and only one 

 knife for three persons. 



Having loaded themselves with specimens, they concluded to return, 

 their ideas of life in tropical climates having undergone much change 

 in this short time, from the erroneous belief they had entertained that 

 industry was not necessary, that the inhabitants were surrounded by 

 luxuries, having every delicacy imaginable, and that the only reason 

 they were not advanced in agriculture and the arts was from the idle- 

 ness engendered by the enervating influence of the climate. The 

 fatigue and endurance necessary to overcome the actual state of 

 things, was least of all expected ; and such a thing as suffering from 

 cold, even on elevated spots, had not been dreamed of. 



The common food of the country was found to be ground manioc 

 and jerked beef, which proved palatable after their fatigues. Their 

 guide, however, who was a New Hampshire man, complained much 

 of his privations. 



They had seen the Mato Virgen, or primeval forest, and instead of 

 finding it, as had been represented, beset with difficulties in penetrating 

 it, they were surprised to find it more accessible than some of the 



