ISO CHILI. 



The mode of changing horses is truly characteristic of the country. 

 The relays are made as soon as the shaft-horse tires ; he is quickly 

 taken out, and one of the drove caught with a lasso, and put in his 

 place, when on they go. These relays occur every eight or ten miles ; 

 the only relief the poor horses have is a trot out of harness, and without 

 a load. The bilocheros seldom dismount ; all is done on horseback. 

 On going up hill, a third or even a fourth horse is soon hitched to the 

 vehicle to assist the draught. The horses are all in good condition, 

 and it is not a little remarkable that they should be so, for I understood 

 that their only food at this season was chopped straw. The teamsters 

 and Guachos themselves are equally abstemious. They live mostly 

 upon bread and their favourite chicha, which is made from the grape, 

 and resembles cider ; but after it has passed through a fermentation, it 

 is quite intoxicating. The mud huts or ranchos, on the road-side, are 

 filled with happy and contented faces. 



PEASANT S HOUSE. 



Begging is common on the road to the city, and is quite a business. 

 The beggars let themselves to the highest bidders, and value themselves 

 according to their deformities. At Valparaiso two days are allowed 

 in each week for begging. 



The plain of Maypo, which reaches to the foot of the Cuesta del 

 Prado, is extremely level, and is almost thirty miles in width, extending 

 to the foot of the Cordilleras. The road leads nearly in a straight line 

 over it to the city of Santiago, which is situated on the eastern side of 

 the plain. 



The elevation of Santiago above the sea is fifteen hundred and 

 ninety-one feet, upon the third step or plain from the coast. Its entrance 

 is through avenues bounded by high adobe walls, which shut out all the 

 view, except the Cordilleras, which tower above and beyond it. 



The more the Cordilleras are viewed, the greater appears their 

 attraction. They have at all times an imposing aspect from the 

 neighbourhood of the city. Their irregular and jagged outline is con- 

 stantly varying under the effects of light and shade. The rays of the 

 setting sun, with the deepening shadows, throw the innumerable peaks 



