CHILL 191 



Shortly afterwards, it was suspected their peon was leading them 

 astray ; this was evident by their crossing and recrossing the river, and 

 wandering at random on a road which was apparently but little 

 travelled. After a toilsome route of three and a half hours, they found 

 themselves surrounded by many branches of the river, whose banks 

 were but a few inches above the water. The peon then acknowledged 

 himself bewildered, and that he had missed his way. Crossing the 

 streams was attended with some danger, for owing to their rapidity 

 and depth they were near sweeping the horses off their legs. Return- 

 ing a league or two, they fortunately met a muleteer, who put them in 

 the road ; but their horses were now so exhausted that they were 

 compelled to seek lodgings at a rancho. After applying at several, they 

 succeeded in getting a place to lie in, after making many promises of 

 liberal payment. A similar course, notwithstanding a positive refusal 

 or denial of having any provisions, procured them a casuela, served in 

 a large wooden bowl, with wooden spoons. This is a sort of Chilian 

 chowder, w T ith a plentiful supply of garlic, onions, Chili pepper, &c, 

 and one of the favourite dishes of the country. In three days' ride 

 they had passed over about sixty miles ; the highest temperature expe- 

 rienced was 65-5°, the lowest 35-7°. At the rancho where they stopped 

 for the night, the temperature fell 20*5° in three hours. 



They passed the night w T ith the usual annoyance in most houses in 

 Chili, for fleas were found in great abundance. In the morning the 

 temperature was 35*5°, and the ground covered with hoar frost. The 

 rancho was supposed to be about one hundred feet above the level of 

 the sea. The mountains in the immediate neighbourhood were from 

 six to seven thousand feet high, exhibiting a gorgeous appearance as 

 the sunbeams lighted them up, and at times the brilliancy was so great 

 as to dazzle the eye. They left the rancho at seven o'clock, and 

 although it was only ten miles distant, they did not reach San Felipe 

 before eleven. The road passed over a third cuesta, which exhibited 

 a regular columnar structure. The hills inclining to the northward 

 open and present to view the broad plain of Aconcagua. San Felipe 

 de Aconcagua stands about fifteen miles from the foot of the Andes, 

 and the mountains are seen from thence in all their grandeur. The 

 peak of Tupongati is, however, lost sight of as the town is approached, 

 disappearing behind the nearer snowy peaks. This mountain is situated 

 on the dividing or eastern ridge of the Cordilleras, and within the 

 United Provinces of La Plata. 



On arriving at San Felipe, they proceeded at once to the house of 

 Mr. Henry Newman, an English gentleman resident there, and engaged 

 in mining operations, to whom they had letters. Mr. Newman was 



