234 PERU. 



been the key of Peru. Whichever party had it in possession, were 

 considered as the possessors of the country. * It is now converted to a 

 better use, viz. : that of a custom-house, and is nearly dismantled. 

 Only five of its beautiful guns remain, out of one hundred and forty- 

 five, which it is said to have mounted. During our visit there the 

 Chilian troops had possession of the country, which they had held 

 since the battle of Yungai. Most of the buildings are undergoing 

 repairs since the late contest. 



It is said that the fortress is to be demolished, and thus the peace 

 of Callao will in a great measure be secured. 



The principal street of Callao runs parallel with the bay. There 

 are a few tolerably well-built two-story houses on the main street, which 

 is paved. These houses are built of adobes, and have flat roofs, which 

 is no inconvenience here, in consequence of the absence of heavy 

 rains. The interior of the houses is of the commonest kind of work. 

 The partition walls are built of cane, closely laced together. The 

 houses of the common people are of one story, and about ten feet 

 high ; some of them have a grated window, but most of them only a 

 doorway and one room. Others are seen that hardly deserve the name 

 of houses, being nothing more than mud walls, with holes covered 

 with a mat, and the same overhead. 



The outskirts of Callao deserve mentioning only for their excessive 

 filth ; and were it not for the fine climate it would be the hot-bed of 

 pestilence. One feels glad to escape from this neighbourhood. 



The donations to the clergy or priests, at two small chapels, 

 are collected on Saturdays from the inhabitants. On the evening of 

 the same day, the devotees of the church, headed by the priest, carry 

 a small portable altar through the streets, decorated with much tinsel, 

 and various-coloured glass lamps, on which is a rude painting of the 

 Virgin. As they walk, they chaunt their prayers. 



The market, though there is nothing else remarkable about it, ex- 

 hibits many of the peculiar customs of the country. It is held in a 

 square of about one and a half acres. The stands for selling meat 

 are placed indiscriminately, or without order. Beef is sold for from 

 four to six cents the pound, is cut in the direction of its fibre, and looks 

 filthy. It is killed on the commons, and the hide, head, and horns are 

 left for the buzzards and dogs. The rest is brought to market, on 

 the backs of donkeys. Chickens are cut up to suit purchasers. Fish 

 and vegetables are abundant, and of good kinds, and good fruit may 

 be had if bespoken. In this case it is brought from Lima. Every 

 thing confirms, on landing, the truth of the geographical adage, " In 

 Peru it never rains." It appears every where dusty and parched up. 



