236 PERU. 



length, and is tolerably well paved, with sidewalks. Billiard-signs 

 stare you in the face. This, I presume, may be set down as the great 

 amusement, to which may be added the favourite monte at night. 

 There is no lack of pulperias. 



Coaches, or rather omnibusses, run several times a day to Lima. 

 The old accounts of robberies on the road to Lima, are still fresh in 

 the mouths of strangers. In times of revolution it was infested by 

 robbers, but the steps taken by government have effectually put a stop 

 to them. 



The 4th of July was duly celebrated. The Falmouth, Captain 

 M'Keever, fired a salute in honour of the day, and the Vincennes was 

 dressed with national flags. 



On the road to Lima is Bella Vista ; but it is in ruins, and has been 

 so ever since the revolution. It was generally the outpost or battle- 

 ground of the two parties, and although the soil in the plain which 

 borders the sea is extremely fertile, consisting of decomposed rock, 

 containing the elements of fertility in the greatest abundance, it now 

 appears a neglected waste. Attention to its cultivation and irrigation 

 would make it a perfect garden. On approaching Lima, the gardens 

 and fields are found to be cultivated and well irrigated. Fields of 

 Indian corn are seen, some fully ripe, some half-grown, and others 

 just shooting up, — a novel sight to us. This bears testimony not only 

 to the fineness of the climate, but to the fertility of the soil. The 

 gardens near the city are filled to profusion with fruits of all descrip- 

 tions. 



The road, on its near approach to the city, forms an avenue of about 

 a mile in length. This, in its prosperous days, was the usual evening 

 drive, and afforded a most agreeable one. On each side are gardens 

 filled with orange trees, the fragrance of whose flowers, and the beauty 

 and variety of the fruit, added to its pleasures. It is now 7 going to 

 decay from utter neglect. Its rows of willows, and the streams of 

 running water on each side, though forming its great attraction, will, 

 if suffered to remain without attention, be completely destroyed. No 

 one seems to take interest in the public works. So marked a diffe- 

 rence from Chili could not but be observed. 



At Lima I was struck with the change that had taken place since 

 my former visit. Every thing now betokens poverty and decay; a sad 

 change from its former splendour and wealth. This appearance was 

 observed not only in the city, but also among the inhabitants. Whole 

 families have been swept off, and their former attendants, or strangers, 

 have become the possessors of their houses and property. 



The country has been a scene of commotion and revolution for the 



