PERU. 237 



last twenty-five years, of which Lima for a long time was the centre. 

 The fate of Lower Peru being entirely dependent on it, and the fortress 

 of Callao, the alternate possessors have stripped it and its inhabitants 

 in every way in their power. It may with truth be designated a 

 declining city. 



The neglected walls and ruined tenements, the want of stir and life 

 among the people, are sad evidences of this decay. The population is 

 now said to be about forty-five thousand, although in former times it 

 has been supposed to amount to as many as sixty-five or seventy 

 thousand. 



The aspect of the city, especially a bird's-eye view from the neigh- 

 bouring hills, gives to the eye of the stranger the appearance of ruins. 

 There are few buildings that have the look of durability, and no new 

 ones have been put up for the last forty years. The plan of the city 

 combines more advantages than any other that could have been 

 adopted for the locality. The streets are at right angles, and all 

 sufficiently broad. Those which run with the declivity of the ground, 

 northwest and southeast, have water flowing through their middle. 

 They have not, however, a very clean appearance ; but this is certainly 

 not to be imputed to the want of the facility of being made so. The 

 uses to w T hich these streams are put, and the numerous buzzards that 

 frequent them, gives the stranger any other idea than that of cleanli- 

 ness. The buzzards are protected by law, and may be seen fighting 

 for their food in the gutters, regardless of passers ; or sitting on the tops 

 of the houses, thirty or forty in a row, watching for more food. 



Great attention has been paid to laying out the Alameda, which is 

 on the north side of the city. Its centre is ornamented with a number 

 of fountains ; its walks are well shaded on each side with trees ; and 

 the running water adds to its freshness : all unite to form a delightful 

 promenade. In the cool of the evening it is much frequented, and its 

 stone seats are occupied by numbers of citizens. This is the best place 

 to get a view of the inhabitants ; and notwithstanding their internal 

 commotions, they appear fully to enjoy their cigarittas, w T hich they are 

 constantly smoking. The peculiar dress of the ladies is here seen to 

 the best advantage, and, however fitted it may be to cover intrigue, is 

 not, certainly, adapted to the display of beauty. A more awkward and 

 absurd dress cannot well be conceived. It is by no means indicative 

 of the wearer's rank, for frequently this disguise is ragged and tattered, 

 and assumed under its most forbidding aspect to deceive, or carry on 

 an intrigue, of which it is almost an effectual cloak. 



I never could behold these dresses without considering them as an 



