PERU. 241 



cherimoyers, pomegranates, paltas, plantains, bananas, papaws, gra- 

 nadillas, apples, figs and ananas. 



The above are the usual articles crowded into the market, but were 

 I to stop here, one half would not be told. All sorts of goods, jewelry, 

 cottons, woollens, laces, hardware, linen fabrics, handkerchiefs, shoes, 

 slippers, hats, &c, are hawked about by pedlers with stentorian lungs, 

 who, with the lottery-venders, with tickets, ink-horn, and pen, selling 

 the tickets in the name of the Holy Virgin and all the saints, make 

 an uproar that one can have little idea of, without mixing in or wit- 

 nessing it. 



The convent of San Francisco occupies six or seven acres of 

 ground. In its days of prosperity it must have been a magnificent 

 establishment. Its chapels are very rich in gilding, carved work, &c, 

 and the cloisters are ornamented with beautiful fountains and flower- 

 gardens. Part of it is now occupied by the soldiers as barracks, and 

 their muskets are stacked on the altar of one of its chapels. It has 

 long since been stripped of its riches and deserted, but it seems once 

 to have possessed all that wealth, luxury, and taste could effect or 

 suggest. The good Father Anculus, who showed the building, was 

 shrewd and obliging. The gallery of paintings contains it is said 

 many fine Murillos. The remains of its former splendour, even now, 

 justifies what Father Feuillee asserted, that there was nothing of the 

 kind to compare with it in Europe. There are but few friars here at 

 present, but it is said to have formerly maintained five hundred, living 

 in the greatest luxury and licentiousness. The most remarkable object 

 in the church, was the shrine and image of a black Virgin Mary, with 

 a white infant Saviour in her arms. 



The public library is composed of rare and valuable books, both in 

 French and Spanish, taken from the Jesuits' College and convents. 

 They are in good order, and among them are many manuscripts which 

 are beautifully illuminated. The librarian, a young priest, deserves our 

 thanks for his attention and civility. 



The public museum has been but lately commenced. It contains a 

 collection of curious Peruvian antiquities, some native birds, and the 

 portraits of all the Viceroys, from Pizarro down. At the cabildos or 

 city hall, are to be seen some of the archives of Lima, kept until 

 recently in good order. Many signatures of the old Viceroys and 

 Governors are quite curious ; among others, that of Pizarro is shown. 

 As few of them could write, they adopted the Rubrica, made by 

 placing the finger of the left hand and making the flourish on each 

 side of it, the clerk filling in the name. This method has since been 

 generally adopted among the South Americans, in signing official 



VOL. I. v 31 



