246 PERU 



skirts are seen groups of the better classes, sitting down to their 

 pic-nics. 



The acting President and Governor of Lima, Lafuente and staff, 

 honoured the place with their presence, to please the people. He did 

 not, however, appear to receive any honours, nor was his arrival 

 greeted with marks of approbation or enthusiasm. Towards evening, 

 when the inebriated mass is returning, the great sport of the day 

 occurs. The cholo women, who ride astride, are remarkably good 

 horsewomen, and extremely expert in managing their horses. Their 

 dress is peculiar : a large broad-brimmed hat, with flowing ribands of 

 gay colours, short spencer or jacket of silk, a gaudy calico or painted 

 muslin skirt, silk stockings, blue, pink, or white satin shoes, and over 

 the whole is sometimes worn a white poncho. Large wooden stirrups, 

 ornamented with silver, numerous pillions, a saddle-cloth, and richly 

 ornamented bridle, all decked with amancaes, form the caparison of 

 the steeds. 



Nothing can exceed the confusion of the return of this great throng, 

 moving over a dusty road, shouting and racing. The cholo women 

 are always on the lead, and actively engaged in taking care of their 

 drunken partners, who are frequently seen mounted behind them, with 

 their faces flushed from the effects of pisco, forming an odd contrast 

 to the beautiful yellow flowers that adorn their hats. The great feat 

 of the women who ride single, is to unhorse their companions, which 

 they frequently succeed in doing, to the great, amusement and sport of 

 the pedestrians, and the discomfiture of their male associates. They 

 are seen while at full gallop to stop suddenly, whirl round two or three 

 times, and go off again at full speed, covering themselves and the 

 bystanders with dust. Just before reaching the city, the road is lined 

 with vehicles, not unlike our cabs, in which are seated ladies in full 

 costume. 



The Alameda, as well as the streets leading into it, is crowded on 

 this occasion with all the fashion of the city. Though the crowd 

 would lead to the belief that every body was abroad, yet the doors 

 and windows are filled with heads, more or less decorated with 

 amancaes. This is a festival nowhere surpassed in drunkenness and 

 uproar. 



Most of the buildings in Lima have suffered more or less from 

 earthquakes. It was the season of earthquakes during our stay, and 

 three were felt. Some of our gentlemen complained of a sickening 

 sensation during the first. It did not, however, do much damage. 

 The second took place on the 5th of June, and was sensibly felt ; a 

 third was experienced on the 10th of June, with a continued shaking 



