254 PER U. 



are gazetted, it would appear that but a small number travel into the 

 interior, or else that the regulation is not very strictly complied with. 



The injunction to render the party assistance in case of need was 

 very strong, and among other things specified to be furnished, was 

 clothing, which was thought to look somewhat ominous in this country 

 of banditti. In spite of the positive terms in which the passport was 

 expressed, it was found of little effect in procuring them mules or 

 horses ; and it was not till after much trouble and disappointment on 

 many sides, that horses were at last obtained from the post establish- 

 ment. 



On the 16th May they were ready to set out, and were accompanied 

 for some miles by Mr. Biggs, whose friendly advice and assistance 

 they had often, during the jaunt, reason to be thankful for. It saved 

 them much inconvenience, and was the cause of their being provided 

 with many little comforts, without which they would have suffered 

 privation. 



Their proposed route was up the valley of the Rio de Caxavillo, 

 the river next to the northward of the Rimac. Leaving Lima, they 

 passed through the suburbs of San Lazaro, at the gate of which, and 

 for the only time during the journey, they were desired to show their 

 passports. Some little difficulty arose, and an intention was expressed 

 to unload the baggage-mule for examination. This, however, was 

 soon removed by the reading of the passport, and the examination 

 ended in many bows, and the repeated exclamation, " Go on, go on ! 

 God speed you !" Such was the talismanic effect of an official docu- 

 ment, at the period of our visit. 



After leaving the city, their route lay along the margin of the 

 extensive plain that borders on the sea, at the foot and over the low 

 hills which skirt it. Many columns of dust and loose particles of sand 

 were seen rising from the heated plain, stirred by the action of the 

 wind, forming vortices of considerable diameter and elevation. Clouds 

 of smoke, too, were visible in the distance, proceeding, according to 

 the information of their guides, from the burning of the cane-brakes. 

 The Peruvian willow, so much resembling the Lombardy poplar in its 

 form, was much admired, and the contrast in the landscape between 

 the barren clay-coloured hills, and the bright green of the irrigated 

 fields, was quite remarkable. 



At the distance of three leagues from Lima, they passed through 

 the ruins of an Inca town, situated (as they uniformly found them 

 afterwards) just on the border of the irrigated valley. The wal's of 

 the town were very thick, built of mud and unburnt brick, at right 

 angles, very much after the modern manner ; the hills, also, were seen 



