PERU. 255 



covered with the ruins of Indian buildings, some of them resembling 

 fortifications. 



They now turned up a beautiful valley, on the irrigated fields of 

 which were seen herds of horned cattle, horses, and goats, — a proof 

 that the irrigated land is not exclusively used for tillage. 



At six leagues from Lima they reached Ponchorua, the first stop- 

 ping-place; but the party concluded to go a league beyond it to 

 Caballeros, where they passed the night. They arrived there in 

 sufficient time to make a short excursion to the banks of the Rio de 

 Caxavillo, which appeared a larger stream than the Rimac. 



Around Caballeros are very extensive meadows and fields of clover. 

 The posada was found occupied by the guard and muleteers who 

 acted as a convoy of silver from Pasco. They gave up the only room 

 in the house for our gentlemen, into which they were shown, and 

 w T here a good supper was provided for them, while the guard took 

 up their quarters in the yard. The metal, it was observed, was in 

 large masses of pifia, some of them heavy enough to be a load for a 

 mule, and an inconvenient burden to run away with. 



They passed the night on the tables and rude seats, under cover, — a 

 luxury they had not yet learned to appreciate. 



At midnight they felt the shock of an earthquake. A distant hollow 

 sound w 7 as at first heard, which seemed to approach, increasing 

 rapidly, and before they could spring to their feet, the house was rolled 

 and shaken as if it had been on an agitated sea. Mr. Rich says that 

 it was with difficulty he could hold himself on the table where he had 

 been lying. The natives of the adjoining huts ran out into the road, 

 uttering horrible shrieks, striking their breasts, and offering up prayers 

 to the Holy Virgin to protect them. The shock continued severe for 

 forty seconds, but lasted altogether about two minutes ; it produced a 

 slight nausea, like sea-sickness, which continued for some time after- 

 wards, and a bewildering sensation, that rendered it difficult to collect 

 their ideas to speak. The sound resembled that produced by throwing 

 stones over precipices, so as to roll on hollow ground beneath. This 

 earthquake was the most violent that had been experienced for some 

 time, and was felt sensibly at Lima and through all Lower Peru. No 

 material damage was done, — in consequence, according to the people 

 of the country, of its not getting to the surface. 



Early on the 17th the party set out up the dry mountain valley, 

 the soil of which is composed of stones and loose powdery earth. 

 This kind of ground continued for five leagues, with not a drop of 

 water, nor was a plant or bird collected ; nothing was seen growing 

 but a few Tillandsias. On this route they passed many crosses, mark- 



