PERU. 257 



introduction, was not at home ; some difficulty in getting mules 

 occurred in consequence, and it was not until much time and patien e 

 had been exhausted, that our gentlemen understood the real difficulty, 

 which was, that the horses they had brought from the low country 

 were not considered capable of standing the cold and fatigue of the 

 mountains, the owners at Lima having refused to allow their mules to 

 cross the mountains. They were assisted in procuring mules and 

 guides by the general's son. 



Obrajillo, the largest of the three towns, contains about one hundred 

 cottages. It has a stone church, with two towers, apparently of some 

 age, which fronts on the open square. The dwellings are of one story, 

 without floors, and almost without furniture ; yet it. is said to be the 

 residence of many wealthy people. How true this may be, it was 

 impossible from appearances to determine, for the high and low, the 

 rich and the poor, all seem to live in the same style. 



The difficulties that occurred in procuring mules for their journey, 

 had delayed them so long as to place it out of their power to proceed 

 oefore the next day. The opportunity of visiting the environs was 

 taken, and a large collection of plants was obtained, the annuals being 

 found in the right season for making collections. The cascade which 

 was seen as they approached, was visited, and exhibited a picturesque 

 and beautiful appearance, even when it was four miles distant. 



At Obrajillo there are many pretty gardens and fields, under a good 

 state of cultivation. The roadside itself looked like a flower-garden, 

 and flowers of almost every hue were seen on either side, Calceolarias, 

 Lobelias, &c. 



Here was the first point where they had met the llama used as a 

 beast of burden ; the load which they carry is from seventy to ninety 

 pounds. 



On the 19th, at an early hour, some vagabonds, assuming the name 

 of Chilians, went the rounds of the village, helping themselves to 

 every thing they desired, to the utter dismay of the inhabitants, who 

 made no resistance. The consequence was, that having neglected to 

 supply themselves with bread the evening before, they lost the oppor- 

 tunity of doing it. This was a serious inconvenience, for Obrajillo 

 supplies the upper country with bread, as Lima does the lower, and it 

 is procured with difficulty, except at these two places. Potatoes were 

 therefore taken as a substitute, though a very inconvenient one, from 

 their great weight and bulk. 



They were on the route by six o'clock, and an hour's ride brought 

 them to a spot where the river formed a very picturesque rapid, soon 



vol. i. W2 33 



