260 PER U. 



the cooking is done with turf, when it can be obtained, but dry cow- 

 dung is most commonly used for this purpose. This is the only and 

 the best establishment the place affords ; even the first females in the 

 country can procure no better accommodations, and will bear it for the 

 night with contentment. 



As a special mark of distinction, a smaller apartment was assigned 

 to our gentlemen, in a hut adjoining that in which their supper was 

 cooked, of which they witnessed the preparation.. The cooking range 

 was of peculiar construction, and might serve as a pattern for a modern 

 cuisine. It occupied one corner of the apartment, and appeared to be 

 convenient and well adapted to the wants of the inmates. The vignette 

 on the preceding page is a representation of it and the occupant. 



After a time the fore-quarter of mutton made its appearance, in the 

 hands of their landlady, scorched to a cinder. Being unprovided with 

 a knife, she began to tear it into small pieces with her fingers. Our 

 gentlemen remonstrated, but nothing would stop her until nearly every 

 morsel of it had passed through her dirty hands. This, added to her 

 state of intoxication, caused some of them to lose their supper from 

 sheer disgust, though all agreed that she carved or tore it into pieces in 

 a most dexterous manner. 



After supper they were informed by their guides, in much conster- 

 nation, that a band of Chilian marauders were approaching ; the whole 

 establishment was in great uproar. The party, however, proved to be 

 a convoy. The officer in charge was civil, and engaged freely in con- 

 versation on the pending contest between Chili and Peru. 



During the night the party were very much troubled with headache 

 and difficulty in breathing ; they passed an uncomfortable night on the 

 clay floor. The thermometer in the doorway stood in the morning 

 at 33°. 



Casa Cancha is in a valley surrounded by lofty mountains. Its 

 height, upon the authority of a gentleman at Lima, is fourteen thousand 

 five hundred feet above the level of* the sea. Pasturage in its vicinity 

 is good ; sheep and cattle are abundant : bread and potatoes are brought 

 over the mountains from Obrajillo ; of these they have oftentimes but a 

 scanty supply, which was the case at this period. The evening previous 

 to their arrival a theft had taken place there, — a gentleman had had his 

 fire-arms stolen ; a great loss when one takes into consideration the 

 nature of the country, and the dangers to be encountered in travelling. 



On the morning of the 20th, with one exceplion, they were all 

 affected with vomiting, headache, and fever, and still suffering much 

 from difficulty in breathing ; this is usually felt on first visiting these 

 elevated regions, and is said to be particularly so at night. 



