PERU. 263 



from deserting altogether, and caused our gentlemen some fear lest 

 they might be compelled to return ; but after much dispute, the guides 

 consented to proceed, although it must be allowed that the bargain 

 was far from being advantageous to them. 



Along the road to Banos they passed some high ridges, with snow 

 and ice coming at times down to the path ; also lakes in deep ravines, 

 somewhat resembling small craters, which, like all the rest they had 

 seen, were tenanted by numerous water-fowl. 



The crest of the Andes did not appear here quite so broad as it had 

 been found to be four leagues to the southward, but its elevation was 

 thought to be greater. The contiguous ranges of snowy peaks, in the 

 direction of Pasco, were very striking. The Indians have names for 

 all the most remarkable ones, but the Spaniards embrace the whole, 

 together with the principal one, under the name of La Vinda. 



From the direction of the descent to the northward and westward, 

 they began to suspect they were descending upon the western slope of 

 the Cordilleras instead of the eastern ; this proved to be the case, 

 which was no small disappointment, as it was their original intention 

 to reach the wooded district on the eastern slope, termed " montanas." 

 In this they were therefore disappointed. As they proceeded, the 

 country improved, the climate became milder, and the soil richer ; on 

 their way they crossed a small stream, which was said to be the 

 source of the river Chancai. 



At dark they reached Banos, which is computed to be upwards of 

 five leagues from Casa Cancha. Banos is considered to be at about 

 the same elevation as Culnai, but the descent is more rapid to the 

 former. According to the custom of the country, they applied to the 

 alcalde for accommodations, who is obliged, according to law, to fur- 

 nish travellers with a house, if the town should possess none for the 

 use of strangers, free of expense, and to provide them with a cook ; 

 the travellers buy their own provisions, and pay for the cooking, one 

 real for each dish. 



Banos is celebrated for its mineral hot springs, from which it 

 derives its name ; they flow from the base of a high mountain. 



The town consists of about thirty houses, and a church, of which 

 the inhabitants are very proud. It is a neat village, situated in a deep 

 ravine, by the side of a tumbling stream, bounded on both sides by 

 mountains three thousand feet high. The mountain sides appear so 

 precipitous, that the remark was made by one of the party, " that he 

 could not conceive why the cattle that were feeding on their sides did 

 not fall off." 



Along the margin of the stream, carnations, pinks, stock gilly- 



