PERU. 273 



nut, and on the rivulet there was ice one-fourth of an inch thick. 

 Mr. Brackenridge gathered seeds here of a curious species of Cactus, 

 which grows plentifully all over the mountains in dense tufts ; from 

 the quantities of down or fine hair upon it, it has the appearance at a 

 distance of a white sheep, so much so that a group of them was 

 sometimes mistaken for a flock. 



Although Casa Cancha was a wretched hovel, and had every thing 

 in it to disgust, yet the situation was one of great beauty. In the 

 stream that flowed near it, were fish of from six to eight inches in 

 length, but none of these were taken, as the party was not provided 

 with fishing-tackle. 



When the time came for their departure, they were glad to bid 

 adieu to the place, and to begin their ascent to the top of the ridge. 

 They rode two leagues to the source of the stream, which is near the 

 summit of the ridge. At a short distance from their path was the line 

 of perpetual snow. They found the ground hard frozen as the snow 

 was approached, and almost bare of vegetation, only a few stunted 

 spears of grass occurring here and there ; even this appeared to be 

 w r anting in the bare spots above the snow line. The snow was but a 

 thin covering, its surface was hardened, and its lower margin formed 

 a perfectly unbroken horizontal line, along the face of the mountain. 

 This was not apparently the case on the other ridges, for the snow lay 

 there in hollows, and sometimes descended, as before remarked, below 

 the path. 



In the alpine lakes was a species of Myriophyllum, the same as was 

 met with at Culnai, three thousand feet below. Dr. Pickering found 

 an ammonite here. 



They descended rapidly on the western declivity ; the scenery was 

 beautiful, and they had enough employment in collecting specimens. 

 Two large parties were met, on the route, the one of loaded mules, the 

 other of several genteel travellers, among whom were females, ac- 

 companied by several servants well armed. In the afternoon they 

 reached a solitary hut, at a place called Chicrine, situated at the foot 

 of La Vinda, and kept by an old woman with one eye ; she proved 

 very much the reverse of their hostess at Casa Cancha, being very 

 cleanly ; here they passed the night comfortably. 



A Frenchman, who was now passing for a native, and was on his 

 way to Pasco, with his servant, joined them at Chicrine. Being 

 invited to partake of supper, he accepted, and did ample justice to the 

 meal ; but when he had finished, contrary to the usual politeness of 

 his countrymen, he told them he had never eaten a worse meal in his 

 life. 



vol. i, 35 



