274 PERU 



After this remark, a belief was entertained that his saddle-bags 

 contained edibles, and he was accordingly plied with questions until 

 he confessed he had a loaf of bread : this proved quite acceptable, and 

 a triumph over their fellow-lodger, who promised them a farther treat 

 in the morning upon some fine chocolate. 



On the morning of the 25th, the Frenchman departed early, and 

 forgot all about his fine chocolate. They regretted to hear, shortly 

 after their arrival at Lima, that he had been robbed and murdered on 

 his return. 



Our party set out early, and after an hour's ride reached Culnai, 

 where the villagers were busy gathering in their potatoes. There 

 were also several patches of Oxalis cunata, Tropseolum tuberosum, 

 and a species of Basella. The two former when cooked were well- 

 tasted, and all of them are much esteemed by the natives. These 

 patches are enclosed by low stone dikes ; the plants as they advance 

 are earthed up, as we do potatoes, in the early part of the season ; 

 irrigation is necessary, as the soil is light and open, and consists 

 chiefly of decayed rock and vegetable mould. Here some very inte- 

 resting seeds and roots of a species of Alstrcemeria were gathered. 



Culnai and Bafios are about on the same level, ten thousand feet 

 above the sea, and are the highest points of cultivation ; they are both 

 distant from the crest, by the route of the water-course, about nine 

 miles. 



Dr. Pickering having preceded the party on foot, reached Culnai 

 after nine o'clock, when he entered a store and was received with the 

 utmost cordiality ; a meal was at once prepared for him, consisting of 

 eggs and potatoes, called chupe in the country, which was kindly 

 tendered ; the landlord was very inquisitive, and examined his budget, 

 calling the attention of the bystanders to it ; his charge was reason- 

 able, and he gave the doctor a hearty salutation at parting, with the 

 " Adios per Dios." 



At dark the party was reunited at Obrajillo. Those who arrived 

 first witnessed the slaughtering of a bullock in the square, on which 

 occasion great numbers of condors and buzzards were collected in the 

 air above. The latter bird is seldom seen higher up than Yaso. They 

 stopped at the posada, which they found occupied by the company of 

 Chilian troops whom they had met at Casa Cancha, and in consequence 

 they were obliged to take up with a filthy hut. 



At Obrajillo good crops of Indian corn, rye, and beans are raised; 

 but none of these grow at a greater altitude. 



A singular and rather amusing custom was witnessed in the morning, 

 which does not speak much for the gallantry of the male population. 



