

326 PAUMOTU GROUP. 



On Raraka we soon discovered a party of natives, near the entrance 

 to the lagoon, waving a Tahitian flag, three horizontal stripes, red, 

 white, and red. They were partly dressed, some in shirts, without 

 hats, others with vests, and others again with trousers of all colours. 

 I joined the schooner, stood in for the mouth of the lagoon, and landed. 

 Nothing could be more striking than the difference that prevailed 

 between these natives and those of the Disappointment Islands, which 

 we had just left. The half-civilization of the natives of Raraka was 

 very marked, and it appeared as though we had issued out of darkness 

 into light. They showed a modest disposition, and gave us a hearty 

 welcome. We were not long at a loss as to what to ascribe it ; the 

 missionary had been at work here, and his exertions had been based 

 upon a firm foundation ; the savage had been changed to a reasonable 

 creature. Among the inhabitants was a native missionary, who had 

 been instrumental in this work. If the missionaries had effected 

 nothing else, they would deserve the thanks of all those who roam 

 over this wide expanse of ocean, and incur its many unknown and 

 hidden dangers. Here all shipwrecked mariners would be sure of 

 kind treatment, and a share of the few comforts these people possess. 

 No savage mistrust and fear were seen here. The women and 

 children came about us, receiving our trifles. They showed much 

 joy and curiosity at the sight of us, and were eager to supply our 

 wants. The chief was an old man, much tattooed about the breast 

 and arms, which gave him the appearance of a blue and brown 

 checker-board ; others had large rosettes on their legs, and horizontal 

 bands on the back, passing a considerable distance on each side of the 

 spine, elaborately executed in various patterns. 



This is believed to be the tattooing 

 peculiar to the inhabitants of Anaa or 

 Chain Island. They frequent the dif- 

 ferent islands of the group, and are 

 generally employed by those engaged 

 in the shell-fishery. 



I was particularly struck with the 

 modest and quiet behaviour of the native missionary, who was a 

 Tahitian. He kept himself aloof, whilst all the others were crowding 

 round to partake in the presents we were distributing, and seemed 

 much gratified and astonished when I selected him out as the recipient 

 of a present similar to the one I had given the chief. 



All the males' heads were shaven, somewiiat after the fashion of a 

 Dominican friar. This practice is said to have been adopted by the 

 missionaries at Tahiti, for the sake of cleanliness, and also to dis- 



TATTOOING. 



