328 PAUMOTU GROUP. 



been wrecked upon other islands, and have been absent from then- 

 own several years. These gales they say come from the northwest 

 They live here in small huts, which are rather an improvement upon 

 those of the islanders we had already seen ; these dwellings are formed 

 of poles, with a mat covering, and are carried with them on their 

 voyages. 



Though scarcely able to protect them from the weather, yet these 

 huts are clean, and lined with mats. Their persons seemed cleanly 

 also, and they showed a great disposition to oblige us. Some atten- 

 tion was paid to cultivation, as was evinced in the plantation and care 

 of their cocoa-nut groves, as if wishing to provide for their future 

 wants. The trees of the young plantations were all carefully staked 

 around. Their food consists of dried fish, somewhat similar to a 

 whiting, of which they had a good and plentiful supply, and also of the 

 masi, a preparation of the bread-fruit, which they were keeping for 

 their return voyage. 



This was the first island on which we observed the dawning of 

 Christianity and civilization. The native missionaries, although they 

 are yet ignorant of most of the duties enjoined upon a Christian, still 

 do much good in preparing the way. Many learn to read, and some 

 even to write, under their tuition ; yet they have many impediments 

 thrown in the way of their efforts by the introduction of spirits by the 

 whites. The old chief, and others, are much addicted to the use of it, 

 and the vessels resorting here for the pearl-fishery generally employ 

 native divers, and pay them for the most part in rum or whiskey. We 

 found here an Englishman who had belonged to a schooner engaged 

 in the pearl-fishery. He told me he had been left there sick by his 

 captain, and had been kindly treated during his stay of three months 

 on the island. I was in hopes of obtaining some information from 

 him, but he knew little or nothing of the language, and was, moreover, 

 a stupid fellow. I gave him a passage to Tahiti, whither he was 

 desirous of going, in the tender. 



Having some business on board, I invited the chief to go off with 

 me : he first inquired if all the boats and men were to stay ; on my 

 telling him they were not, he said he would go on board if I would 

 also take his wife, and her brother ; to which I consented. 



The chief had lost one hand, which he informed me had been 

 bitten off by a shark whilst employed in diving for shells. We became 

 great friends, and he thought it necessary to be at my side the whole 

 time. He was an odd old man, and proved before we left him that he 

 had become acquainted with some of the vices of civilization. 



We all embarked, soon reached the tender, and bore away for the 



