OVOLAU. AT 
white foam on them, with no bottom until the entrance is gained, 
when a beautiful and tranquil basin opens to the view. 
The remarkable peculiarity of these coral harbours, if so I may call 
them, is that in gaining them, it is but an instant from the time the sea 
is left until security is found equal to that of an artificial dock ; this is 
particularly the case with the harbour of Levuka. ‘The shore was lined 
with natives, watching our progress with their usual curiosity ; and it 
was amusing to hear the shouts of applause that emanated from the 
crowds on shore, when they witnessed the men, dressed all in white, 
running up the rigging to furl the sails. 
In passing to the anchorage, we saw a tiny boat, in which was 
David Whippy, one of the principal white residents here, with one of 
his naked children. This man ran away from a ship, commanded by 
his brother, that was trading in this group, in consequence of the ill 
treatment he received on board; he now has been eighteen years on 
this island, and is the principal man among the whites. He is con- 
sidered a royal messenger, or Maticum Ambau, and is much looked 
up to by the chiefs. He speaks their language well; is a prudent 
trustworthy person, and understands the character of the natives 
perfectly : his worth and excellent character I had long heard of.* 
He immediately came on board to welcome us, and after we had 
anchored near the town, he brought off Tui Levuka, the chief of the 
Levuka town. This dignitary was a stout, well-made man, strong 
and athletic, entirely naked, with the exception of a scanty maro, 
with long ends of white tapa hanging down before and behind, and a 
turban of white fleecy tapa, not unlike tissue-paper, around his head, 
of enormous size. These turbans designate the chiefs, and frequently 
have a small wreath of flowers over them. His face was a shining 
black, having been painted for the occasion; his countenance had a 
good expression, and he seemed, after a few moments, to be quite at his 
ease. As is customary, I at once gave him a present of two whale’s 
teeth and two fathoms of red cotton cloth, with which he was well 
satisfied, clapping his hands several times, which is their mode of ex- 
pressing thanks. His hair was crisped, with a small whalebone stick 
or needle, twelve or fourteen inches in length, stuck into it on one 
side; he did not leave me long in doubt as to the use to which the 
latter is put, for it was continually in requisition to scratch his head, 
the vermin being not a little troublesome. He was very desirous of 
doing every thing for me, and said that any ground I wished to oc- 
* He has, since our return, been appointed vice-consul for the Feejee Group 
