4 TAHITI. 



reefs of coral. Such objects are sufficient to form a beautiful land- 

 scape, and my disappointment probably arose in part from finding 

 every thing more diminutive than I had been led to imagine from the 

 highly-wrought descriptions I had been perusing only a few days 

 before. 



We were surrounded, even before we anchored, by canoes of all 

 shapes and sizes, whose crews made a prodigious clamour. I at once 

 interdicted any one who was not a chief from coming on board ; but 

 upon this being announced, every one claimed to be a chief of some 

 description or other. Only the great chiefs, therefore, were admitted. 

 These came off in whale-boats, which are now superseding the canoe, 

 and brought with them trifling presents of fruit. It was soon found 

 that their errand was not one of mere ceremony, but was intended to 

 solicit the washing of our dirty linen, a business which is among the 

 prerogatives of the queen and chiefs. I was informed that the queen, 

 being enceinte, was residing on the opposite side of the island, which 

 would prevent her from paying us a visit. I was, therefore, at liberty 

 to choose a less distinguished laundress, and spared the pain of resisting 

 her royal solicitations for soap, an article much needed and in great 

 request at Tahiti. 



I was glad when the night closed in, to be rid of our numerous 

 visiters. The pilot, who goes by the name of " English Jim," was 

 equally so, for he chose to be considered as the only privileged person, 

 and, besides, was looking somewhat to his own profit in the line of 

 clothes-washing, a business which the presence of the chiefs threatened 

 to interfere with. Jim is quite a respectable-looking man, dresses in 

 the European fashion, and speaks English, which he has acquired on 

 board of whale-ships, tolerably well. Although a good pilot, so far as 

 a knowledge of the shoals goes, he does not understand what to do 

 with a vessel, in case of difficulty. He told me that he had been 

 looking out for vessels for some days, for it had thundered. 



Although the shape and extent of Tahiti are well known, I venture 

 to give a map of it, which has been made as correct as our opportu- 

 nities would permit. The two peninsulas, if they may be so termed, 

 of which it is made up, are of very different characters. The smaller 

 one, called Tairaboo, and usually spoken of as " the small island," is 

 said to be the most fertile : it possesses some harbours, but they are 

 little better known than they were half a century ago. Both peninsulas 

 possess twenty-four harbours, including the good and bad. Tahiti 

 proper contains the best, and therefore engrosses all the commerce. It 

 has in consequence been for many years the seat of government. 



The whole island is of volcanic formation, but there is no longer 



