26 TAHITI. 



only three feet deep. Other fords of the same description occurred 

 every few rods, until they at last reached one in which the water 

 reached to their necks. This was of course dangerous to those who 

 could not swim, but all crossed in safety. A young native, as if in 

 derision of the difficulty which they appeared to experience, and of 

 their effeminate bringing up, dashed into the flood, and was seen 

 plunging down the rapids in sport, and evidently with great enjoy- 

 ment, although frequently wholly immersed in the foam. Our gentlemen 

 had now an opportunity of comparing their own awkwardness and 

 want of ease in the new position in which they were placed, with the 

 agility and freedom of motion exhibited by the natives. 



The whole afternoon was thus spent in travelling about three miles, 

 at the end of which they reached some huts, in which they passed the 

 night comfortably. These huts they were informed had been erected 

 by natives, who wished to enjoy a carouse of ava, far from the notice of 

 the judges, and free from the intrusion of their spies. Here they were 

 able to indulge in their old habits of debauchery, which not unfre- 

 quently ended in riot and bloodshed. 



In the morning, after three hours' travelling, during which they 

 frequently crossed the stream, they reached a place where a branch 

 of it came in from the southwest. Some natives assured them that by 

 taking this route they might reach the top of Pitohiti, and stated that 

 this had been done during the last war by some natives, who occupied 

 it as a place of refuge. In support of this statement, they mentioned 

 that these refugees had found the birds so tame that they might be 

 taken by hand. This circumstance, which, from its apparent incredi- 

 bility, might seem to disprove the statement, is in fact almost positive 

 evidence of its truth, when compared with what we had seen of the 

 birds in uninhabited islands, where their habits would naturally cor- 

 respond to those secluded in the mountain solitudes of Tahiti. 



Here they learned that it would be impracticable to accomplish both 

 objects of their mission within the time for which they were furnished 

 with provisions. It was therefore resolved to divide the party into two 

 detachments, one of which should proceed towards the lake, and the 

 other endeavour to ascend the mountain. 



It was in this place that the last battle was fought between the 

 Christian and heathen parties. Paura, their guide, pointed out all the 

 places where any remarkable incidents of the conflict had occurred. 

 He seemed to take particular pleasure in drawing the attention of the 

 party to two places. In one of these a captain had his head beaten to 

 pieces, and the other was a precipice, several hundred feet in height, 

 over which the defeated party had been driven and dashed to pieces. 



