34 TAHITI. 



to visit places on the opposite side of the island, in preference to 

 passing over the mountains. 



At sunset they reached Otapuna, which is a large village, pleasantly 

 situated on a low point of land, covered with orange, bread-fruit, and 

 cocoa-nut trees. In this place Utami, one of the principal chiefs, 

 who is governor of this district, resides. With him our travellers took 

 up their quarters. His dwelling differs from other native houses, in 

 being divided into rooms, and having floors of plank ; indeed every 

 thing about his establishment indicated more refinement than they had 

 yet met with. His table was set out after the European fashion, and 

 he gave them tea made of a native herb. 



Utami is a very intelligent person, and had been one of Pomare's 

 great captains. He related many anecdotes of the struggle in 1815, 

 which by his account appeared to have been a sanguinary one. He 

 stated, that on the retreat of the heathen party, all their prisoners 

 were put to death, by beating out their brains with clubs ; that 

 numbers of them had been forced over precipices ; and that, many 

 had fled even to the summits of the mountains, where they remained 

 until a general pardon and amnesty had been proclaimed by Pomare. 

 Even this was not accepted by all, for many remained in the wild and 

 dreary regions of the mountains, refusing to embrace the new religion ; 

 and of these some had continued to exist until within the last five or 

 six years. Utami was of opinion that this remnant was now extinct. 



Among other things, he informed them that the wild race which had 

 previously inhabited the island, were accustomed to roam all over it ; 

 but that since they had been subdued or exterminated, none but the 

 cutters of sandal-wood had been accustomed to enter the mountainous 

 regions. These had been in the habit of ascending the most difficult 

 peaks by the aid of ropes, and of steps cut in the rock, but he was of 

 opinion that no one now remained who knew the way. 



Utami was a fine-looking white-headed man, of giant proportions, 

 and when speaking of his former deeds in arms, showed a great deal 

 of fire and animation. Before he retired to rest he read a chapter in 

 the Bible, and made a prayer, with much apparent devotion. He 

 seems to have a great disposition to adopt European improvements, 

 and was engaged in building a house, which when finished will be the 

 best in the island. The floors will be all laid with plank ; it will have 

 partitions of boards, and large windows with Venetian blinds. 



This village is the next in size and importance to Papieti. 



When this party first descended to the beach and reached Mirapahe, 

 they found a vessel on the stocks there. This enabled them to obtain 



