TAHITI AND EIMEO. 41 



The scenery at Papieti is remarkable ; the background is filled up 

 with a number of pinnacle-shaped mountains, jutting up in a great 

 variety of forms ; beneath, and directly in front of them, lies the semi- 

 circular harbour, surrounded by the white cottages and churches of 

 the village, embosomed in luxuriant foliage ; these dwellings have a 

 peaceful and home-like look, to the eye of an American. In front, the 

 little coral island of Moto-utu forms an embellished foreground, and 

 serves to break the regularity of the line of the harbour, while by con- 

 cealing its extent, it gives it an air of ■ greater magnitude than it in 

 reality possesses. To my eye, this view combined within itself a 

 perfect picture of Polynesian scenery, enhanced in beauty by the signs 

 of civilization, among which was the national flag of Tahiti, waving 

 from a fortress on Moto-utu. 



The purpose of my visit to Papieti had originally been to go through 

 the ceremony of receiving the great chiefs on board, when, according 

 to custom, presents are made them ; but before this was done, I deter- 

 mined that the business, which I had laid before the council, as stated 

 in the preceding chapter, should be adjusted. This was done satisfac- 

 torily on the 22d, when they assented to all that had been asked of 

 them. I am convinced that their conduct in this matter was dictated 

 throughout by a sense of what is right, and am satisfied that if griev- 

 ances do exist, it is only necessary to state them, when, if redress is 

 within their power, it will be granted. 



Agreeably to my invitation, Uata, who appeared as the representa- 

 tive of the queen, the two princesses, Ninito and Taii, and all the head 

 chiefs, visited the ship, accompanied by the foreign consuls. The ship 

 was dressed for the occasion with flags, and they were received with 

 every mark of respect. Luncheon was prepared for them ; and when 

 they were all seated at it, it struck me that I had never seen such a 

 collection of corpulent persons. Previous to eating, one of the oldest 

 chiefs said grace. Their appetites were good; none of the food 

 appeared to come amiss. They seemed heartily to enjoy themselves, 

 and conducted themselves with a propriety that surprised us all. They 

 were, cautious in partaking of the wine which was set before them, 

 and seemed evidently upon their good behaviour. This was the case 

 with the high chiefs, who, to the number of about fifteen, had been 

 invited ; but, besides these, about an equal number of others contrived 

 to get on board without invitation ; the latter thrust themselves forward 

 with eagerness to occupy places at the table, but were compelled to 

 give place to those of higher rank. A second table was, however, 

 prepared for them, at which they took their seats, and did ample justice 

 to what was set before them. 



VOL. II. D2 6 



