70 T U T U I L A. 



cipated, I should be ready to take up the survey of the latter, or assist 

 in completing it. The Porpoise was ordered to examine the island of 

 Savaii ; and one of the naturalists, Dr. Pickering, was directed to join 

 her, for the purpose of exploring the interior of the island during her 

 operations in its vicinity. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold was 

 therefore directed to land him for the purpose, and take him on board 

 when the survey should be concluded.* 



On the 10th of October, we had light winds, in consequence of 

 which we did not reach Tutuila that day. At daylight on the 11th we 

 were near its eastern end, and off the island of Anuu. 



About eight miles to windward of the harbour of Pago-pago, we 

 were boarded by several canoes, in which were some natives, with a 

 white man, by name William Gray, whom I retained as interpreter 

 during our stay here, and found of much use. 



The island of Tutuila is high, broken, and of volcanic appearance. 

 It is seventeen miles long, and its greatest width is five miles. The 

 harbour of Pago-pago penetrates into the centre, and almost divides 

 the island into two parts. It is less varied in surface than the Society 

 Islands ; and its highest peak, that of Matafoa, was found to be two 

 thousand three hundred and twenty-seven feet above the sea. The 

 spurs and. ridges that form the high land are like those of Tahiti: 

 precipitous, sharp-edged, and frequently rise in mural walls from the 

 water to a height of three or four hundred feet, showing the bare 

 basaltic rock. Above this height, the surface is covered with a 

 luxuriant vegetation to the very top of the mountains ; the cocoa-nut 

 tree and tree-fern give the principal character to this beautiful scenery. 

 Dead coral is seen along the shores, above high-water mark. 



The harbour of Pago-pago is one of the most singular in all the 

 Polynesian isles. It is the last point at which one would look for a 

 place of shelter : the coast near it is peculiarly rugged, and has no 

 appearance of indentations, and the entrance being narrow, is not 

 easily observed. Its shape has been compared to a variety of articles : 

 that which it most nearly resembles is a retort. It is surrounded on all 

 sides by inaccessible mural precipices, from eight hundred to one 

 thousand feet in height. The lower parts of these rocks are bare, but 

 they are clothed above with luxuriant vegetation. So impassable did 

 the rocky barrier appear in all but two places, that the harbour was 

 likened to the valley of Rasselas changed into a lake. The two breaks 

 in the precipice are at the head of the harbour and at the Pilot's Cove. 

 The harbour is of easy access, and its entrance, which is about a third 

 of a mile in width, is well marked by the Tower Rock and Devil's Point. 



* For orders, see Appendix V. 



