CHAPTER IV. 



UPOLU— M ANON O—SA VAIL 



1839. 



The surveys of the island of Tutuila having been completed by tne 

 23d November, we made preparations for our departure, and on the 

 25th we weighed anchor. In leaving the harbour we had a narrow 

 escape from wreck ; the almost constant southeast wind, which is fair 

 to a vessel entering the bay, and makes it easy of access, is ahead on 

 going out, which renders egress difficult ; it therefore becomes neces- 

 sary to make frequent tacks, and a vessel must be well manoeuvred to 

 escape accident, for to miss stays would be almost certain to bring 

 about shipwreck. When we beat out, the wind was light, and it failed 

 altogether just as we reached the most dangerous part of the channel ; 

 we were in consequence brought within an oar's length of the reef, on 

 which a heavy surf was breaking. The moment was a trying one, 

 and the event doubtful ; all were at their stations, and not a word was 

 spoken. Of my own feelings on the occasion I have no very precise 

 recollection; merely remembering that I felt as if I breathed more 

 freely after the crisis had passed and we were in safety. 



The afternoon was fine, and we sailed along the southern shore of 

 the island, admiring its diversified surface, its luxuriant groves, and 

 the smiling villages that crown its bays. Where the valleys come out 

 from between the ridges to the shore, there is usually a level plain 

 extending inwards for a couple of miles ; these plains are occupied 

 for the most part by groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, beneath 

 whose shade lie the dwellings of the natives. Many of the inhabitants 

 were abroad in their canoes, employed in fishing; some of them 

 scarcely seemed to notice the ship, passing them rapidly with all sail 

 set, while others appeared to regard her with intense curiosity. In 

 the evening we had much lightning, but no thunder. 



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