NEW ZEALAND. 373 



lava. The soil In the neighbourhood of the craters is richer, looser, 

 and more fit for cultivation than in other places. 



Dr. Pickering made a visit to Hokianga, on the western side of the 

 island, and found that it had more of the forest character than the 

 eastern. He took the direct road to Waimati, which is fifteen miles 

 from the Bay of Islands. The river Waitanga was very high, and 

 one of the chiefs, a large and muscular man, seemed to take particular 

 interest in getting them across safe and dry ; but notwithstanding his 

 stature and all his care, he could not prevent a slight immersion.* 

 The Doctor arrived at Waimati at 4 p. m., and was kindly welcomed 

 by Mr. Davis, the Methodist missionary, to whom he had a letter of 

 introduction. It was not without surprise that he found here a water- 

 mill in operation, which the guides took care to point out with no little 

 exultation. This, together with the fences, and well cultivated fields, 

 were the works of the missionaries. He remained with Mr. Davis for 

 the night, who advised his proceeding direct to Hokianga; but the 

 guides who had hitherto accompanied him were ignorant of the route, 

 and another became necessary. 



The next day they passed over the flank of Te-ahooahoo, a volcanic 

 cone, and the most prominent elevation in this region. A little farther 

 on, a fine lake w r as passed, about three miles in length. At nine miles 

 from Waimati, the wooded region was entered, which extended to 

 Hokianga. Just before crossing the Hokianga river for the first time, 

 the Baron de Thierry was met with, who was exceedingly polite. The 

 road after this became difficult, it being necessary to cross the river 

 repeatedly, and to follow the stream for some distance. The usual 

 manner of crossing here is to be carried. The guides, under various 

 pretexts, prevented them from reaching Hokianga, and they were 

 compelled to stop four miles short of it, at a chiefs called Tooron, of 

 rather doubtful character. 



Tooron, with his family, had worship both morning and evening, 

 as is customary with converted natives, he himself officiating. The 

 accommodations were none of the best. An open shed, with fire and 

 blanket, were, however, sufficient to insure a good night's rest. 

 Tooron was liberally paid, and so well pleased, that he said he was 

 determined to carry his guests over the river himself. The road was 

 any thing but good, being miry, and filled with roots of trees, so that 



* On the banks of the Waitanga, the adult inhabitants, to the number of twenty, were 

 collected in a circle, each armed with a musket, and several had been met on the way, all 

 armed. The cause of this unusual occurrence was not known. They are very fond of fire- 

 arms, and on welcoming any one, particularly a chief, all the people of the village assemble 

 and salute him with a number of rounds, in proportion to his rank. 

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