396 NEW ZEALAND. 



a harbour existed. Provisions of all kinds are much cheaper and 

 better than at the Bay ; and although the natives are aware of this 

 difference, yet not being able to transport their provisions there, they 

 are content to dispose of them for a less price. 



Their kind friend Ko-towatowa took them back to Wangarara, 

 stopping on the way at his pa, where he presented them with quanti- 

 ties of peaches, which had been tabooed to his people. At Wanga- 

 rara they again found their guide, and the two old chiefs, — the elder of 

 whom was called Kawau, and the other, a little younger, Ruahenna : 

 both of them have the character of being great rascals. The contrast 

 between them and Ko-towatowa was very much to their disparage- 

 ment. With some reluctance they ordered a pot of potatoes to be 

 boiled ; but when night came, they positively refused entrance into 

 their huts unless each gave a shilling, to which Ko-towatowa sternly 

 objected, saying that they were his guests, and should not pay. A 

 quarrel between the chiefs ensued, and the only way it was prevented 

 from going to extremity, was to slip the money quietly into old Ka- 

 wau's hand ; after which, peace was restored, and they retired for the 

 night, where they were effectually tormented by the fleas and vermin. 

 Ko-towatowa, on taking leave of them, refused any compensation for 

 his services ; but a pressing invitation to pay them a visit at the bay 

 was accepted. 



They returned by the same route, and by noon reached Waicaddie 

 Pa. It contains about two hundred houses, and is situated between 

 two small fresh-water streams. This is the most cleanly and extensive 

 town in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands. Mr. Baker, of the 

 Episcopal Mission, has settled here ; he has many acres of land, and 

 comfortable dwellings, farms extensively, and has about twenty head 

 of cattle, with good pasture for them. The natives also possess some 

 cattle. By night they reached their lodgings. 



One who has long known the New Zealanders, and on whose judg- 

 ment reliance may be placed, gives them credit for intelligence and 

 generosity, and says that they are hospitable and confiding to strangers, 

 persevering where the object concerns themselves, strongly attached 

 to their children, and extremely jealous of their connubial rights. A 

 violation of the latter is punished with death, not only to the parties 

 themselves, but sometimes extended to the near relatives of the 

 offenders. They are crafty, but not overreaching in their dealings, 

 covetous for the possession of novelties, although trustworthy when 

 any thing is placed under their immediate charge, but not otherwise 

 over-honest. 



A transient visiter would hardly give them so high a character, and 



