142 
COLUMBIA RIVER. 
viewed through a smoked glass. We were, fortunately, in a great 
degree, independent of it, as it was not necessary to see more than a 
short distance to discover the signals for the soundings. It however 
prevented me from verifying my astronomical stations, which I was 
desirous of doing. 
Acting-Master Sinclair, who had been despatched to Vancouver 
for some articles belonging to the Oregon, that had been left there, 
joined us below Warrior’s Point, on the 19th, with letters and news 
that had been brought from the United States by an over-land party. 
These letters were very acceptable, as we had not received any 
advices from home for twenty-two months, and tended to revive our 
spirits, as well as encourage our exertions. On the 20th, we anchored 
again off Coffin Rock, near which we found a depth of twenty-five 
fathoms, which is the deepest water within the capes. This place is 
sixty miles from the mouth of the river, and eight miles above the 
confluence of the Cowlitz. The shores here are composed of trap 
and a conglomerate, the last of which is the same rock as that which 
occurs below, and has already been spoken of. The Coffin Rock, 
which is not more than sixty feet in diameter, and twelve feet above 
the water, appears to have been exclusively reserved for the. burial of 
chiefs. Dr. Holmes procured here some fine specimens of Flathead 
skulls for our collection. We anchored the same evening off the 
Cowlitz. 
Early the next morning, I proceeded up the Cowlitz in my gig, in 
order to finish the survey of that stream and examine the strata of 
coal said to exist there. After entering it, it was with difficulty that I 
recognised the river; for there is a greater difference than even in the 
Columbia, between its high and low states. After passing up the Cow¬ 
litz several miles, I encountered rapids, through which it was necessary 
to drag the boat by a line. I found, after great exertion and fatigue, 
we could not ascend beyond thirteen miles; for it had become so shallow 
that the boat would not float, and we had not strength enough to force 
her over the wide bars of gravel and sand, that had apparently accu¬ 
mulated during the last spring. After securing some specimens of 
lignite that were found embedded in the alluvial banks, and taking 
observations for time, I turned back; and feeling anxious to reach the 
brig at an early hour, I ventured to shoot one of the rapids. In doing 
this, we all had a narrow escape; and particularly two of the boat’s 
crew, who were in great danger of their lives. We fortunately 
escaped, but with considerable damage to the boat and a few bruises, 
the whole of which was the work of an instant. This taught me not 
to venture upon such an experiment again, and I felt thankful to escape 
