MANILLA. 
299 
tioned in Manilla is six thousand, and the army in the Philippines 
amounts to twenty thousand men. The officers are all Spaniards, 
tfenerallv the relations and friends of those in the administration of 
O * 
the government. The pay of the soldiers is four dollars a month, and 
a ration, which is equal to six cents a day. As troops, I was told 
they acquitted themselves well. The Prado is laid out in many 
avenues, leading in various directions to the suburbs, and these are 
planted with wild almond trees, which afford a pleasant shade. It is 
well kept, and creditable to the city. 
In passing the crowds of carriages very little display of female 
beauty is observed, and although well-dressed above, one cannot but 
revert to their wearing no stockings beneath. 
On the Prado is a small theatre, but so inferior that the building 
scarce deserves the name: the acting was equally bad. This amuse¬ 
ment meets with little encouragement in Manilla, and I was told, was 
discountenanced by the Governor. 
I had the pleasure during our stay of attending a tertulia in the 
city. The company was not a large one, comprising some thirty or 
forty ladies and about sixty gentlemen. It resembled those of the 
mother country. Dancing was introduced at an early hour, and con¬ 
tinued till a few minutes before eleven o’clock, at which time the 
gates of the city are always shut. It was amusing to see the sudden 
breaking up of the party, most of the guests residing out of the city. 
The calling for carriages, shawls, hats, &c., produced for a few 
minutes great confusion, every one being desirous of getting off at the 
earliest moment possible, for fear of being too late. This regulation, 
by which the gates are closed at so early an hour, does not appear 
necessary, and only serves to interrupt the communication between 
the foreign and Spanish society, as the former is obliged, as before 
observed, to live outside of the city proper. This want of free inter¬ 
course is to be regretted, as it prevents that kind of friendship by 
which many of their jealousies and prejudices might be removed. 
The society at this tertulia was easy, and so far as the enjoyment 
of dancing went, pleasant; but there was no conversation. The re¬ 
freshments consisted of a few dulces, lemonade, and strong drinks in 
an anteroom. The house appeared very spacious and well adapted for 
entertainments, but only one of the rooms was well lighted. From 
the novelty of the scene, and the attentions of the gentleman of the 
house, we passed a pleasant evening. 
The natives and mestizoes attracted much of my attention at Ma¬ 
nilla. Their dress is peculiar: over a pair of striped trousers of 
various colours, the men usually wear a fine grass-cloth shirt, a large 
