MAUNA LOA. 133 



which we had for the men hired of Pea ; but no argument would 

 induce them to accept it on these terms, and they went round begging 

 and borrowing all they could from those who were supplied. The 

 reason that they would not buy the poe I found was, the dislike they 

 had to take up any of their wages before the whole became due, and 

 in consequence many of them went hungry. It was amusing to watch 

 some of these, who frequently would seat themselves near a party 

 who were eating ; but it did not produce any effect upon those who 

 had plenty, as they knew the reason of their being without food. 

 From what I saw of these islanders on this trip, I am not disposed to 

 believe them so hospitable, or so thoughtful of each other, as the Tahi- 

 tians or Samoans. Selfishness is a predominant trait in the character 

 of the Hawaiians, and when they are thus associated together, it 

 shows itself more strongly than at other times. 



At sunrise on the 19th, we had the temperature at 48°. 



As the ascent was now becoming laborious, we selected and left the 

 things we had no immediate use for, to follow us by easy stages. We 

 then took a diagonal direction through the remaining portion of the 

 woods. By one o'clock we had lost all signs of trees, and were sur- 

 rounded by low scraggy bushes : the change of vegetation became 

 evident, not only in species, but in size ; we also passed through exten- 

 sive patches that had been destroyed by fire. Sandalwood was seen, 

 not as a tree, but a low shrub. 



During the day we had passed extensive caves, in all of which I 

 had search made for water. These often lead a long distance under 

 ground, and some of the men passed in at one end and out at another. 



Intending to stop on Sunday not far above these caves, calabash- 

 tops were left in one or two where water was found to be dropping, in 

 hopes by this means to procure a small supply ; but on returning the 

 next day, it was found that very little had accumulated. These caves 

 or tunnels had apparently been caused by a flow of lava down the side 

 of the mountain, which on cooling had left the upper part arched or 

 vaulted, the fluid running off at its lower extremity or opening and 

 spreading itself over the surface. The opening into them was formed 

 by the roof having fallen in, and partly blocked up the tunnel. At no 

 great distance from the opening, the floor on each side was smooth 

 and closely resembled the flow of the lava on the surface. These 

 openings were usually known by the quantity of raspberry and other 

 bushes around them ; and they reminded me of the caverns in limestone 

 districts. 



Between two and three o'clock, we again became enveloped in 

 clouds, and it was necessary for us to redouble our precautions against 



