NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 31 1 



They readily close when they think their customers indifferent, for 

 fear of a competitor among themselves, and are not in the habit of 

 forming a combination, as they show little or no confidence in each 

 other, and are rather disposed to rivalry. As far as our observations 

 went, the chiefs have little authority among them. 



Having seen the other parties all off, or ready to start, our party for 

 the Columbia river also set out. It was a strange cavalcade, for most 

 of us were but sorry horsemen, and we had every variety of accoutre- 

 ments, from the saddle and bridle to the bare back and halter. We 

 were eight in number: Messrs. Drayton, Waldron, and myself, two 

 servants, two Indians, and a Canadian guide, with four pack-horses. 

 All the horses and the guide were kindly furnished us by the gentle- 

 men at the fort, to carry us as far as Cowlitz Farms, about sixty miles 

 distant, where we intended taking canoes. 



Our Indians, though partially clothed in worn-out European cloth- 

 ing, still showed their free and easy carriage on horseback : the few 

 ribands and cock's feathers that were stuck in their caps gave them 

 a flaunting kind of air ; and they manifested a species of self-esteem 

 that was not unpleasing, and betokened an independence and want of 

 care, in good keeping with their mode of life. These savages should 

 never be seen but on horseback, in which position they are really men, 

 and inspire a certain degree of respect. When dismounted, all these 

 qualities vanish, and the Indian becomes the lazy, lounging creature, 

 insensible to any excitement but his low gambling propensities. They 

 have a peculiar knack in managing their horses, and this, too, without 

 any apparent means of controlling them, for their only bridle is a 

 single cord fastened to the lower jaw; with this they contrive to 

 govern the most refractory animals, without the aid of whip or spur, 

 and will urge to speed an animal that has become all but lifeless under 

 our guidance. They practise great cruelty to their horses, and pay 

 no regard whatever to the state of their backs. In travelling in this 

 country, all scruples and feelings in respect to sore backs, jaded, 

 lamed, or half-starved horses, must be laid aside ; and my advice is, 

 keep away from your horses until they are saddled, and leave this to 

 your guides who own them. 



The direction of our route was nearly south over the plain, passing 

 occasionally a pretty lawn, and groves of oak and ash trees. At the 

 distance of nine miles we reached the river Nisqually, whose channel 

 is sunk three hundred feet below the plain, between almost perpen- 

 dicular banks. The ravine is about half a mile wide, and is filled with 

 a large growth of timber, which is occasionally uprooted by the torrents 

 that pass down, on the melting of the snows of the mountains. The 



