NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 337 



causing a loss of a thousand bushels. Although the Columbia does 

 not overflow its banks any where except in the lower prairie, there are 

 quicksands in these, through which the water, before it reaches the 

 height of the embankment, percolates, and rises on the low parts of the 

 prairie. In consequence of the low temperature of the water, as I 

 have before observed, it chills and destroys the grain. 



I witnessed the Columbia at its greatest and least heights, and no 

 idea can be formed of it unless seen at both these epochs. The flood 

 is a very grand sight from the banks of the river at Vancouver, as it 

 passes swiftly by, bearing along the gigantic forest trees, whose im- 

 mense trunks appear as mere chips. They frequently lodge for a time, 

 in which case others are speedily caught by them, which obstructing 

 the flow of the water, form rapids, until by a sudden rush the whole 

 is borne off* to the ocean, and in time lodged by the currents on some 

 remote and savage island, to supply the natives with canoes. I also 

 witnessed the undermining of large trees on the banks, and occasional 

 strips of soil : thus does the river yearly make inroads on its banks, 

 and changes in its channels. 



From the circumstance of this annual inundation of the river 

 prairies, they will always be unfit for husbandry, yet they are admi- 

 rably adapted for grazing, except during the periods of high water. 

 There is no precaution that can prevent the inroad of the water. At 

 Vancouver they were at the expense of throwing up a long embank- 

 ment of earth, but without the desired effect. It has been found that 

 the crop of grain suffers in proportion to the quantity of the stalk im- 

 mersed : unless the wheat is completely covered, a partial harvest may 

 be expected. 



The temperature of the waters of the Columbia, during the months 

 of May and June, was 42°, while in September it had increased to 68°. 



The waters of the Columbia have no fertilizing qualities, which is 

 remarkable when the extent of its course is considered : on the con- 

 trary, it is said, from experience, to deteriorate and exhaust the soil. 

 It is, when taken up, quite clear, although it has a turbid look as it 

 flows by. Quantities of fine sand are however borne along, and being 

 deposited in the eddies, rapidly form banks, which alter the channel in 

 places to a great degree. 



During my stay at Vancouver, I had a visit from three of a party of 

 eight young Americans, who were desirous of leaving the country, but 

 could not accomplish it in any other way but by building a vessel. 

 They were not dissatisfied with the territory, but they would not settle 

 themselves down in it, because there were no young women to marry, 

 except squaws or half-breeds. They informed me that, they were then 



VOL. IV. 2D 43 



