FORT WRANGELL 27 



by are small spruce-tufted islands, and low dark shores. 

 Etolin Island is ahead of us, and Prince of Wales Island 

 on the west. In the evening we saw the most strik- 

 ing sunset of the voyage. We were just in the right place 



SUNSET IN INSIDE PASSAGE. 



at just the right time. All the conditions and relations of 

 sun, air, water, and mountain, were as we would have 

 them — a scene such as artists try in vain to paint and 

 travelers to describe: towering snow-clad peaks far ahead 

 of us, rising behind dark blue and purple ranges, fold on 

 fold,and all aflame with the setting sun. We looked upon 

 the spectacle through a huge gateway in our front which 

 formed a dark rugged frame to the picture. The solid 

 earth became spiritual and transcendent. Presently an- 

 other dark gateway opened in the mountains on our right 

 and other transfigured summits — Black Crag, Mt. Whip- 

 ple, the Pinnacles — came into view, riding slowly along 

 above and behind other blue purple ranges — such depth 

 and softness of tint and shadow below, such glory of flame 

 and gold above. The ship creeps along in the deepening 

 twilight and slowly the flaming peaks turn to neutral gray. 



WRANGELL AND JUNEAU. 



The morning of the fifth dawns clear and cold, like a 

 winter morning in Florida. It finds us at Fort Wrangell, 

 where we spend a few hours on shore looking at totem 

 poles and viewing the shabby old town, while we keep an 

 eye open to the botany and natural history of the place. 



